my battery is in the rear, in a moroso box. i still need a damn emergency killswitch to pass tech don't i? and they probably won't be lenient considering it's an event (import vs. domestic) at a major track... i really didn't want to drop 120 on a battery just yet so hopefully someone on here knows tech rules pretty well and can give me a straight answer or i'm ordering one today.

also has anyone ever been given a hard time for a hole/crack in their coolant reservoir?

 

Yes you will still need a kill switch.

If the inspector is cool, he might let you get away with it as long as your engine won't start unless the clutch is engaged, but I wouldn't hold your breath for it.

I've never had them look at the reservior, but if you're dripping or leaking anything, they won't let you go.

 

yep hes right. i tried running my crx at the track with a rear mounted battery and no kill switch and they said no matter what i needed a rear kill switch. as for the hole, as long as you arent leaking any fluids, you will be okay on that one

 

ok cool thanks guys hopefully it will get here by saturday.

 

jegs or summit. summit gets shit here fast because they ship out of ohio.

 

where are you mounting it? I've yet to find a good location for the kill switch.

 

na, i'm not trying to mount a kill switch for that exact reason, it will just look like shit no matter where you put it... i'm trying to hunt down a slim battery, off to jegs and summit right now. although just for this weekend i'm kind of contemplating taking over the keyhole for the trunk... i'll get back to you guys.

just for curiosity's sake, it could be any type of switch as long as it kills power to the battery, right? i may just end up doing the latter if i can't find a decent battery for cheap...

 

if you read SCC, they had an article a few months ago about rear mounting a battery. They used a honda I believe, but thats not the point- the battery they had in there (the name escapes me) could be mounted in any position but upside down. It was thin as hell probably about 3 inches wide by about 10 inches by 8 inches.

I'm gonna see if I can find it for you.....

 

the switch also has to kill power from the alternator. if they test it, the car has to shut off when the switch is flipped. simply cutting the battery cable won't do that. there are wiring diagrams around the internet for this.

 

ok, my panic has ended, i'll be able to run my car without putting it back in the front, and without scrambling to find and install a kill switch, as long as the tech inspectors don't sway from these rules (seeing as how i don't qualify for any of the classes i'm stuck with et bracket anyway)-

http://www.mirdrag.com/worldcup/wcflash/bracket.htm

having a kill switch is necessary for nhra and some scca events. i'm going to put the battery back in the front, either an oddyssey or dyna-batt (13 lbs, 3" wide) eventually, but it doesn't have to be by sunday. thank you all for your input.

also, carter- i did run into some good ideas for kill switch location. one was the license plate, just take it off when you go through tech. another was behind the taillight, which you could also take off when you go through tech.