Well, I've decided on the wheels that I want to get. Rota Sub-Zero's 17"x7.5"... they have the size and offset I want at a good price and look good IMO.
The tires I'll probably get are Yokohama AVS ES100's. 235/40's...

Now, are the 235's to big for a 7.5" wheel? I know they're a little small for an 8" wheel. The 235's are about 9.25" wide, so there's a difference of about 1.75" in the tire to wheel width.

 

curious, why are you getting 17" diameter for "track" wheels?

if you went with 16X7.5 or even 15X7.5 you'd see better results (in acceleration and handling)

 

personally, I would get the smallest rim that would fit over my calipers with falken azenis...
oh, wait, that's what I have...
I like the subzeros though. I think I like the attacks better though.

 

Point taken... I might get the Rota's for my driving wheels and use my stockers (16x7) for the track wheels. 225's will fit alright, but I'll probably go with 215's or 205's with a lower sidewall.

 

I have 15x7 rims for track tires with Hoosiers and 16x7's for street tires. The hotshoes with GSLSE's typically run 13x8's so... I admit that I never plan to go beyond local area. Oh, I have 205/45 tires (track tires might be 205/50). The national level guys are running 225/45-13's on a GSLSE. I couldn't really tell you what the SP or SM guys are doing for the TII's. I don't think the added gearing of the smaller diameter is that important to you since your car has more torque.

If you are running stock class the usual is to get some street rims in the size you like and use your original rims for track rims, but I am guessing you already have enough mods to take you out of stock...

 

I'm still in stock right now, all I have for performance in a filter and fuel pump (and that doesn't do much in itself). Hopefully, by the next time I run, I'll have a few power adder mods put on and either wheel/tires or suspension.

 

then definately put track tires on stock rims and get what you want for the street. Align suspension with as much negative camber as possible in the front (you will still want more than is available) and as much positive caster as possible. Set the toe to the out side of zero (this might be a little too squirrely for the street, you can judge for yourself). If that is too much set it as close as you can to the toe-out side of the factory settings. I do my own alignments so it doesn't cost anything (ask me how if you don't already know). Shocks will add more than you think they will. See if you can find yourself a set of used R compound tires like Trip did, that you can abuse in the learning process. Either go to a pro race or something like that where they are tossing away piles of them or buy a set from some other well funded road racer or autocrosser (I got mine for $100/set with about half tread). Then have fun in the learning process. Spend your first few months driving your car at every autocross you can afford to attend and have a blast. After 3-6 months the desire to become competitve will make you figure out the best things to spend money on modifying your car.

My idea of the best way to start autocrossing. Your Mileage May Vary.

 

I found an oil pan that I think will fix my problem/worry. Moroso makes a twin baffled 6 1/4 quart pan for like $258. That's going to be my next upgrade.

 

Hoosiers on the stock rims baby!

for racing of course

those sound like nice choices for street tires

 

I want to stay out of the Prepared class, stay in the BS (B stock) for as long as possible.