theReapsta

Damn Check engine light wont go away after i installed a skunk2 test pipe. i tried the sparkplug non fouler trick but that didnt work and yes i tried using 2. I plan on getting some cams and intake manifold here soon, so i wana be able to tune it. What ecu should i get (i was told a p28) but idk? or should i send it to hondata and spend alot of $$$. The stock ecu is odb2 and its a 99 si. Thanks

B-Well

obd2b -> obd1 jumper harness and a p28

if you did away with the o2 sensor that's probably where the code came from. Run a scanner to ensure that's the culprit and go from there.

keefboz

o2 spacer would eliminate that CEL, i just put one on mine to get rid of it and it works great!

thermal

Once you go OBD1, you will not have to worry about the secondary O2 CEL anymore. The o2 spacer/non-fouler is a hit/miss deal. The easiest way to get rid of that secondary O2 CEL, while you're still on OBD2, is to pull the sensor off the exhaust path. So, just take it out and leave it hanging securely in the open atmosphere. Do not disconnect the sensor or the CEL will come back. Lastly, do not forget to place a plug on where the sensor came from.

B-Well

bing-o

theReapsta

thanks but thats ***** rigged. and i tried taking it out and plugging it but the cel still came on. and yes i scanned it. the ecu is in safe mode and car seems a lil sluggish since i got the test pipe. i wana do away with the second o2 for good. should i get the p28? Or should i have hondata chip it? Thanks for info

Mecheng88

Im guessing if you have the money you could send it to Hondata to get the S300 put on the P28 and go obd2 to obd1. So when you do further upgrades you will already have a tuning program. Apparently you can use a obd2 computer with a s300 tuning program. Follow the link and it says everything.

http://www.hondata.com/accessories.html

thermal

^It's still an OBD1 ECU.... except that the harness plug-in has been converted to OBD2 without having to see a conversion harness.... that is what they meant about that^.... and that is why Hondata gets expensive sometimes. So, if you plan to get Hondata, you will still have to get an OBD1 ECU. It's just really cheaper if you look for elsewhere online like phearable.net to get an OBD1 ECU "Hondata prepped".... like what Chris (Fabrik8) used to do for me back in the days. Then just slap a conversion harness. I'm just not sure if any other outside source besides Hondata can prep an OBD1 ECU for an S300 program.

To the OP:
Using an anti-foul is just as "rigged"..... either way, it didnt work for you anyway. Your only option now is go OBD1. The only thing I do not understand is why your ECU is going on "limp mode" on a secondary O2 CEL. I've had to deal with this issue before but none of the hondas I've dealt with didnt go on limp mode. Can you tell us exactly what the CEL code is.... and are you sure that you are only getting one code?

Fabrik8

You can try the old trick of bypassing the O2 sensor signal with a resistor and putting a power resistor as a dummy load on the heater wires. The O2 sensor is completely removed from the car, and it often works perfectly. Google it.

Mecheng88

yeah i read it over again and i was like now i see what they are doing.