megan racing 96-00 civic camber kit?
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I made the mistake of buying the next to cheapest pos camber kit for my car a year or so ago and now the ball joints are gone in it. What I really dont like about it already is the small easy-to-round-out allen screws that squish the metal around it and can slip. I am looking at perhaps a Megan Racing front camber kit due to its seemingly strong structure and the use of hex head bolts instead of allen screws. And also the fact that they are on the top of the arm instead of the bottom which is more difficult to adjust. Does anyone have any experience with these? I am mainly worried about the quality of ball joint and bushing. Thanks, Mike.
This is what they look like:
This is what they look like:
![](https://vexmotorsports.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/meganracing/suspension/camberkit/meganekcamber.jpg)
Last edited by disheeki546; 07-11-2009 at 08:46 AM.
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pay to play and just get the skunk2 ones, and loctite the hardware. (even tho i havent heard of any of the skunk bolts coming out) just saying, it it was MY car, and i was considering a cheap way out of something kind of vital...... id buy shit i knew worked.
i havent HEARD anything bad about megan, but i dont use there shit....
i havent HEARD anything bad about megan, but i dont use there shit....
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i have seen bad reviews on skunks shit. about how the thin piece of metal between the large oval hole for the ball joint and the oval slot for the screws will squish far enough away from the screw that the washer doesnt even catch it anymore. they are the same design as what i have now and i hate it. plus the allen heads rounding out. just going by reviews, i have not tried both. but i doubt skunk has some magic steel that can be just as thin as everyone elses and not bend.
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i have seen bad reviews on skunks shit. about how the thin piece of metal between the large oval hole for the ball joint and the oval slot for the screws will squish far enough away from the screw that the washer doesnt even catch it anymore. they are the same design as what i have now and i hate it. plus the allen heads rounding out. just going by reviews, i have not tried both. but i doubt skunk has some magic steel that can be just as thin as everyone elses and not bend.
OLD
![](http://i27.tinypic.com/2wo8wu8.jpg)
![](http://i30.tinypic.com/29nwdgx.jpg)
NEW
![](http://i25.tinypic.com/wm1qua.gif)
![](http://i25.tinypic.com/j5h7yd.gif)
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gotcha, but still the allen head screws that can be rounded out and harder to adjust being on the underside. how do the skunks ball joints and bushings hold up? i have never personally used them
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damn i did forget that the old ones were kind of junk. haha
i meant the newest ones, hence why i said pay a little more and get the good stuff.
i mean dude it is your money, but like i said i have never heard about megan shit, but im pretty sure its a korean company now, kind of like xs power.... i may be wrong. but i told you what i have seen and what i would do. the new skunk shit is what everyone i know uses on cars from 700 hp drag cars, to street cars. skunk puts alot of time in their engineering and shit.....
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Bam! Your done. It is that easy.
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i was looking for tunability for autocross this summer and next is why i was interested in the location and quality of hardware. after looking into it today, i did notice skunk improved their ball joints and have three levels of camber kits. (naggar & bwell you may already know this but im listing more for informational purposes)
tuner series, which has standard rubber busings and uses the same quality v2.0 ball joint, but screws in from the top with plates to solve the "squishing" issue.
![](http://www.skunk2.com/images/fcktuner.jpg)
pro series, which uses the same v2.0 ball joint but has a plate on the top and screws in from bottom, but uses hard rubber bushings.
![](http://www.skunk2.com/images/fckpro.jpg)
and the pro series plus, which uses the same ball joint as the pro series, but has urethane bushings instead of rubber.
![](http://www.skunk2.com/images/fckproplus.jpg)
now my question is, it looks like all these kits use the same red steel arm, and it looks to be the same as even some of the low quality ebay kits. could i use a skunk2 ball joint on my ebay arm? i did a quick search and found them for around $35. i already have urethane bushings that i could use in it. i would essentially be saving myself like $150 if so and ending up with a pro series plus kit.
tuner series, which has standard rubber busings and uses the same quality v2.0 ball joint, but screws in from the top with plates to solve the "squishing" issue.
![](http://www.skunk2.com/images/fcktuner.jpg)
pro series, which uses the same v2.0 ball joint but has a plate on the top and screws in from bottom, but uses hard rubber bushings.
![](http://www.skunk2.com/images/fckpro.jpg)
and the pro series plus, which uses the same ball joint as the pro series, but has urethane bushings instead of rubber.
![](http://www.skunk2.com/images/fckproplus.jpg)
now my question is, it looks like all these kits use the same red steel arm, and it looks to be the same as even some of the low quality ebay kits. could i use a skunk2 ball joint on my ebay arm? i did a quick search and found them for around $35. i already have urethane bushings that i could use in it. i would essentially be saving myself like $150 if so and ending up with a pro series plus kit.
Last edited by disheeki546; 07-12-2009 at 08:30 AM.
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i truly and honestly dont know about switching ball joints, it may work, it might not. haha i mean all the cheap korean stuff is literally a cheaper made copy of the good shit, so it may work. let us know what you do do and how it works.