Aluminum polishing or Anodizing
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: أنا لست إرهابيا
Polishing for a reasonable rate = elbow grease + a can of Blue Magic Metal Polish 
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Got a 1995-1996 240SX? Want a new front bumper?
Check this out. Posting on drag first to try and avoid shipping it.
Got a 1995-1996 240SX? Want a new front bumper?
Check this out. Posting on drag first to try and avoid shipping it.
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common person
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 340
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From: chesapeake
I'll give Real Deal a call, thanks!
eng.... after spending over 10 hours so far one one wheel and not being close to being finished....I'm just looking to see who offers the service.
eng.... after spending over 10 hours so far one one wheel and not being close to being finished....I'm just looking to see who offers the service.
EMF S2K
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,041
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From: P-Town
First off, if there is any type of paint or clearcoat on the item, strip it with some aircraft stripper available from your local hardware store. Get the surface ass clean and rare material as possible.
Second. Sanding. This will be the hardest and most painstaking part. Start off with a rough grit to get all the rough casting down and smoothed out. For EVERY grit you use, sand untill the scratches put in by the paper is all the same. Move up some grits when you do. I reccomend and electric sander for grits all the way up to 600. When you get to 600 grit, start by hand and sand again till all the scratches are the same. When you get to 800 grit, wetsand using either water or WD40 as your lubricant. Sand till scratches are all the same. For the best shine the aluminium has to be smooth. The smoother it is the more it shines. Go up to 2000 grit and stop.
Next, clean the rim throughly to get off water and wd40 you might have used.
Last but not least, buffing. To get the best shine I reccomend getting a buffing kit like Wenol offers. It comes with wheels and compounds. Start off with a medium buffing wheel and Black Rouge (compound) Hit it up with that multiple times. You should be blingin' already. After that is done, take some White Rouge with a lil softer buffing wheel and hit it up a few times.
If you are doing a rim or anything that contacts with water and what have you clearcoat them. Professional if you can.
Second. Sanding. This will be the hardest and most painstaking part. Start off with a rough grit to get all the rough casting down and smoothed out. For EVERY grit you use, sand untill the scratches put in by the paper is all the same. Move up some grits when you do. I reccomend and electric sander for grits all the way up to 600. When you get to 600 grit, start by hand and sand again till all the scratches are the same. When you get to 800 grit, wetsand using either water or WD40 as your lubricant. Sand till scratches are all the same. For the best shine the aluminium has to be smooth. The smoother it is the more it shines. Go up to 2000 grit and stop.
Next, clean the rim throughly to get off water and wd40 you might have used.
Last but not least, buffing. To get the best shine I reccomend getting a buffing kit like Wenol offers. It comes with wheels and compounds. Start off with a medium buffing wheel and Black Rouge (compound) Hit it up with that multiple times. You should be blingin' already. After that is done, take some White Rouge with a lil softer buffing wheel and hit it up a few times.
If you are doing a rim or anything that contacts with water and what have you clearcoat them. Professional if you can.
Thread Starter
common person
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake
i used the aircraft stripper, have been from grits 200 through 2000, I followed all those steps, I'm gonna go buy the Wenol kit and try that out, I got it looking like a semipolished surface right now...
It's definately ALOT of work, but I got time.....thanks!
It's definately ALOT of work, but I got time.....thanks!
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