jss

First of all don't tell me to go search because I have been for the past 2 days and yes there's a lot of information but some people are saying contradicting information..

I'm planning on mating a D15b7 block with a D16y8 head. I would like to know (preferably from people who have first hand experience) what cam gear I need to use, and if anyone can clarify distributor details that would be great too..

So far I've read from hondatech and dseries forums things like:
"an adjustable cam gear is a must"
"non-y gear advanced a tooth"
"a y gear because it will 'make up for the 1/2 tooth difference"
and something about setting at the b7 gear, then slipping it off and putting the y8 on, then installing the belt..
.. now I don't have a y8 and a b7 cam gear side by side to compare so I'm not even sure how much the difference really is..

and for the dizzy I heard one person swapping out internals to make it fit and one guy did this hack job on his distributor ears to be able to mount it at some intensely retarded setting.

so all my searching has brought me almost nowhere.. I have found (hopefully for certain) that I need the b7 water pump, 9 b7 head bolts and 1 y8 one where the vtec solenoid is, a y8 timing belt, and to remove the oil jet in the b7 block.

I don't even know that much about timing so if anyone can help or if you've made the mini me and you can tell me what you have and that your engine runs right, then please share.. If you're going to tell me something that I've already heard because you saw it on someone's write up in a forum please make that known before I listen.. Any help would be appreciated. thanks

I'm trying to avoid just buying an adjustable gear and spending money getting it dialed in if it's not necessary..

Dough_Boy.

GOOGLE IT.

Fabrik8

Why not use a complete Y8 or Z6?

jss

wow i knew that was going to happen. all im looking for is someone with the same set up to give advice. would you like to see what ive googled?

http://www.d-series.org/forums/natur...8-head-b7.html

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...-troubles.html

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...e-camgear.html

all saying different things, thank for the input though

jss

because the y8 block i bought on here from godie ended up to be a pos and i have access to a b7 block so i thought i would..

Dough_Boy.

I was just messing with you.

LeetPIE

he's lazy

Fabrik8

Sounds like the B7 distributor will work fine onto the Y8 head, but we have no idea what car this is going into.

About the timing: If this is like any other mini-me swap, the reason that the timing is off is because of the difference in timing belt tooth count and deck height (which changes the cam centerline). Basically, for a distance between the crank pulley centerline and cam pulley ("timing gear") centerline, the cam pulley has a certain angle of rotation so that the timing is correct for a given belt length (with a fixed tooth count, because it's a toothed belt). If you change the head or the block to something that changes the distance between the crank and cam pulleys, the cam gear will need a different angle of rotation to change the timing back to what it should be. This is also true if you deck the block, or make a decent change in head gasket thickness. Anyway, that's why the cam gear is half a tooth off with the mini-me swap. Any cam gear capable of a half tooth of adjustment from stock will work perfectly fine.

jss

sorry its going into a 98 dx hatch and hopefully will be using that engine harness so i believe im going to use the y8 distributor because i believe it will plug into the obd2a harness... and im pretty sure ive decided to go with the y8 cam gear.. theres been a lot of people saying different things so im not 100% on it.. and im not sure how much of a difference the different gears make ive hear its about 1/2 a tooth.. im thinking maybe thats relatively not that much difference and thats why people have advised to use both..

crasy87rexsi

I did one a while back, A6 block z6 head. Best advice is whatever you are replacing, replace with the same, from what I found out thats all I could deduce from the shitty info on doing them. Use whatever Tbelt that the head is. Dont forget to take the oil resrictor out of the block(its on the deck of the block, intake side in between #2 and #3 cyl) vtec will not work correctly with it still in.

The timing on the motor I did was fine, I did not switch cam gears or anything. Granted the tbelt was a little tight, but it was fine, I did all the searching on it and could not find any bit of information that was useful. Which seems to be the way you get info on any work for D series, I guess nobody really gives a shit if they fuck their shit up. lol