Let Me Borrow Your EP3 Civic
#1
YANKYMATE!
Thread Starter
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The story: My little brother's EP3 Civic threw a code and put itself in limp mode two weeks ago and my dad and I are working to find the problem and fix it. We've traced the code and followed every writeup and step-by-step process outlined on the forums, FSM and Chilton/Haynes. Tested resistance on sensors, replaced solenoids, cleared the code a million times, but it comes back every time without fail. The last step outlined in every instance is to replace the factory ECM, which a non-refundable $300-$400 part. Ouch.
Here's the plan: we pay you to bring your EP3 to us, cover gas and expenses and all that, then we feed you beer and/or burgers and such while we swap out our potentially-scrap ECM with yours. We know how to do it, just drop the glovebox and remove 2 10mil bolts, easy breezy. We just want to make sure that that IS the problem before dropping that money on a new one from Honda. We're very professional, we won't mess up your car or get it dirty, and it won't take but half an hour at max. No harm will come to your ECM, and on the impossible instance that it does, we'll replace it ASAP no questions asked. Honestly, we just want to be positive that the ECM is where our problem lies before spending the money to replace it.
Let me know if you'd be down for helping a fellow enthusiast out and we'll start planning from there. Thanks in advance!
Here's the plan: we pay you to bring your EP3 to us, cover gas and expenses and all that, then we feed you beer and/or burgers and such while we swap out our potentially-scrap ECM with yours. We know how to do it, just drop the glovebox and remove 2 10mil bolts, easy breezy. We just want to make sure that that IS the problem before dropping that money on a new one from Honda. We're very professional, we won't mess up your car or get it dirty, and it won't take but half an hour at max. No harm will come to your ECM, and on the impossible instance that it does, we'll replace it ASAP no questions asked. Honestly, we just want to be positive that the ECM is where our problem lies before spending the money to replace it.
Let me know if you'd be down for helping a fellow enthusiast out and we'll start planning from there. Thanks in advance!
#3
Slammedxpert
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Just an FYI,
this is kind of a half ass diagnostic, Trace. Only due to, once the ECM is removed it loses memory. If the code is in fact, not ECM related it was just cleared completely by switching computers it could take a couple drive cycles to come back. You need to do some more pinout tests as well on the "faulted" circuit to make sure its not a ground/power/signal issue. ECM's rarely fail, I always hate condemming a computer (same reason you do...$300+ potential mistake). Message me the code, year make and model.
this is kind of a half ass diagnostic, Trace. Only due to, once the ECM is removed it loses memory. If the code is in fact, not ECM related it was just cleared completely by switching computers it could take a couple drive cycles to come back. You need to do some more pinout tests as well on the "faulted" circuit to make sure its not a ground/power/signal issue. ECM's rarely fail, I always hate condemming a computer (same reason you do...$300+ potential mistake). Message me the code, year make and model.
#6
YANKYMATE!
Thread Starter
![Default](images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just an FYI,
this is kind of a half ass diagnostic, Trace. Only due to, once the ECM is removed it loses memory. If the code is in fact, not ECM related it was just cleared completely by switching computers it could take a couple drive cycles to come back. You need to do some more pinout tests as well on the "faulted" circuit to make sure its not a ground/power/signal issue. ECM's rarely fail, I always hate condemming a computer (same reason you do...$300+ potential mistake). Message me the code, year make and model.
this is kind of a half ass diagnostic, Trace. Only due to, once the ECM is removed it loses memory. If the code is in fact, not ECM related it was just cleared completely by switching computers it could take a couple drive cycles to come back. You need to do some more pinout tests as well on the "faulted" circuit to make sure its not a ground/power/signal issue. ECM's rarely fail, I always hate condemming a computer (same reason you do...$300+ potential mistake). Message me the code, year make and model.
It's a 2004 EP3 Civic Si, code P0341.
Thanks, will do.
Any and all help would be appreciated guys
#7
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This is from alldata. I'm sure you looked at the same thing, but did you check these.
DTC P0341:VTC Phase Gap
1. Reset the ECM.
2. Start the engine
Is DTC P0341 indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at CMP sensor A and at the ECM.
3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve.
Is the VTC oil control solenoid valve OK?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Clean the VTC oil control solenoid valve, or replace it.
4. Remove the head cover, and check the cam chain.
Is the cam chain OK?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Replace the cam chain.
5. Check the VTC actuator.
Is the VTC actuator OK?
YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM.
NO - Replace the VTC actuator.
1. Reset the ECM.
2. Start the engine
Is DTC P0341 indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at CMP sensor A and at the ECM.
3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve.
Is the VTC oil control solenoid valve OK?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Clean the VTC oil control solenoid valve, or replace it.
4. Remove the head cover, and check the cam chain.
Is the cam chain OK?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Replace the cam chain.
5. Check the VTC actuator.
Is the VTC actuator OK?
YES - Update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the original ECM.
NO - Replace the VTC actuator.
#8
![Default](images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just sold my 04' EP3 or I would assist, but the problem you may run into is that the ECM is programmed to each key. When I bought my car it came with a Hondata reflash that required 93 pumpgas, I was working on getting rid of it and trading ECM's with another owner, but it came down to, we would have to have the replacement reprogrammed at the dealer to work with the "new" ECM.
As far as I read from the EPhatch board and forums.clubep3 is swapping ECM's isn't as easy as unplugging one, plugging in a new one. Not to say you haven't already looked into that, but it may not be that simple.
I will get in contact with the guy who bought mine, since he's a buddy and see if he's up for helping at all.
As far as I read from the EPhatch board and forums.clubep3 is swapping ECM's isn't as easy as unplugging one, plugging in a new one. Not to say you haven't already looked into that, but it may not be that simple.
I will get in contact with the guy who bought mine, since he's a buddy and see if he's up for helping at all.
Last edited by Blue2turbo; 11-21-2011 at 06:25 AM.
#9
YANKYMATE!
Thread Starter
![Default](images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here's what's been done so far.
Replaced Cam Position Sensors, A & B.
Checked VTC Oil Control Solenoid (resistance, cleaned, hooked to battery and it operates correctly)
Check resistance on VTEC Solenoid, to spec
Set to TDC and removed valve cover, cams and chain are to spec and perfectly lined up and timed correctly
Last thing to do on every writeup is to replace the ECM with a known working one
So that's why I'm here. I'm sure you can understand why this is stressing me out and being a major pain in my ass.
Replaced Cam Position Sensors, A & B.
Checked VTC Oil Control Solenoid (resistance, cleaned, hooked to battery and it operates correctly)
Check resistance on VTEC Solenoid, to spec
Set to TDC and removed valve cover, cams and chain are to spec and perfectly lined up and timed correctly
Last thing to do on every writeup is to replace the ECM with a known working one
So that's why I'm here. I'm sure you can understand why this is stressing me out and being a major pain in my ass.
#10
![Default](images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here's what's been done so far.
Replaced Cam Position Sensors, A & B.
Checked VTC Oil Control Solenoid (resistance, cleaned, hooked to battery and it operates correctly)
Check resistance on VTEC Solenoid, to spec
Set to TDC and removed valve cover, cams and chain are to spec and perfectly lined up and timed correctly
Last thing to do on every writeup is to replace the ECM with a known working one
So that's why I'm here. I'm sure you can understand why this is stressing me out and being a major pain in my ass.
Replaced Cam Position Sensors, A & B.
Checked VTC Oil Control Solenoid (resistance, cleaned, hooked to battery and it operates correctly)
Check resistance on VTEC Solenoid, to spec
Set to TDC and removed valve cover, cams and chain are to spec and perfectly lined up and timed correctly
Last thing to do on every writeup is to replace the ECM with a known working one
So that's why I'm here. I'm sure you can understand why this is stressing me out and being a major pain in my ass.
Oh yea, i've been there. Had a dodge last week with 31 codes. If I had a computer laying around i'd snag it for you. Hope everything works out well and you get it going.