Weird starting problem
On my 91 civic dx hatch, every once in a while it is hard to start. I have to try about 5 times. when trying to start the car sort of "kicks". This happens about every other day now. Any idea what causes this?
original engine.
that's it. naw i'm playin.
it all depends. it could be a number of things such as: starter(but that wouldn't kick), fuel pump(but it probably wouldn't start at all then), plugs/wires(damn well, maybe but probably not). does the car run funny? tried a self-diagnostic? pm me and i can tell you how.
ps-just kinda wanted to make a smart comment but i really do wanna help so pm me.
that's it. naw i'm playin.
it all depends. it could be a number of things such as: starter(but that wouldn't kick), fuel pump(but it probably wouldn't start at all then), plugs/wires(damn well, maybe but probably not). does the car run funny? tried a self-diagnostic? pm me and i can tell you how.
ps-just kinda wanted to make a smart comment but i really do wanna help so pm me.
check the starter solenoid ground. if that dont work i got a ls full swap for $800
http://www.dragva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75662
p.s. - its a dx who cares
http://www.dragva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75662
p.s. - its a dx who cares
Main relay. Try hitting the panel that the relay is under and the car will start right up (while you're cranking it). The panel is next to the change dish to the left of the steering wheel. You will have to open the door.
It sounds ghetto, but it works lol. New relay was ridiculously expensive from hall honda so i resort to hitting mine to make my car start. This happens because the solder balls crack over time and the fuel pump doesn't cut on.
It sounds ghetto, but it works lol. New relay was ridiculously expensive from hall honda so i resort to hitting mine to make my car start. This happens because the solder balls crack over time and the fuel pump doesn't cut on.
The main relay can actually be reflowed, the solder joints get fatigued over time but all you need to do is take the relay apart enough to get to the circuit board. A good sized soldering iron is all it takes to reflow the solder joints, and you're good for a few more years. I've done it to a couple EFs with your exact symptoms.






