This is right but use at your own risk.i have to say this





yes i know how hard it is to find info on all you will need to do to convert over to a h23a vtec if you have an h22 or such.i just performed the swap a few weeks ago.





i started out with a h22 in my 93 ex 4 door.well i found a good deal on the blue top so i said what the hay i would go for it.its really simple so hear it gose.



as you all know the h23a is an obd2 engine.so if your putting it into an obd1 car like me this is what you will need.and if its going into a obd2 your good to go



parts list



your obd1 engine harness

your driverside h22 engine mount that bolts to the block

your h22 clutch and flywheel

obd1 dizzy

obd1 injectors (you can use the h23a fuel rail)

obd1 alternator

obd1 iacv

p28 with base map (are you can use an obd2 ecu but i dont recommend it because it will be looking for sensors you dont need)

a 1ft long gas line from your local parts store and two brass strait fittings.and 4 small hose clamps



ok the obd1 engine harness is almost plug in play onto the h23a.take all your obd2 stuff off the h23a and replace it with the obd1 stuff you took off your h22.



the only mods you will have to do with the engine harness is make the intake temp sensor and iacv plugin wires longer.this is because the sensors are in different spots and the factory plugins are to short.and you will have to trick your ecu because the h23a dose not have a vtec oil pressure sensor



here we go



and on the h23a the iacv has a 3 prong sensor instead of two like the h22.so take your h22 iacv and set it off to the side and run your water lines to that instead of the h23a one and plug in the obd1 plugin that you just made longer.and then just use the idle screw on your tb to set your idle



as for the fuel line.you will need to make this longer for the obd1 cars.so all you have to do is come off your fuel filter some were the line turns to rubber and cut it.do the same were it connects to your fuel rail.now useing the strait fittings and 1ft fuel line cut it to lengh and connect them together with the hose clamps



on the h23a the driver side engine mount bracket bolt holes are closer together were the after market mount bolts onto it.so will need to take the one off the h22 block and bolt it on the h23a block



ok to trick your computer into thinking it has a vtec pressure sensor all you have to do is go the the ecu and jump A4 and D6 together.just strip back and lil bit of wire and use a 18g jumper wire.thats it for that.




bolt your h22 clutch and flywheel to the h23a



everything else just bolts right to it off the h22.tranny the rest of the mounts i mean everthing



and for the record you use an h22 header and intake manifold if you want to go aftermarket.and dont be scared to buy this engine due to everyone saying you cant get parts.all h23 non vtec and h22 parts are interchangable with it





thanks and good luck







went from this



to this

 

Picture dating shows you going to a white top lolol anyways what kind of power increase is there?

 

yea did not reset the date on my camera before pix lol.you can tell a diff in it for sure.it starts pulling alot harder sooner and is crazy on top end LOVE IT

 

Couldn't you of gotten a different set of cams to change the crossover point instead of messing with a harness? And was your h22 just the normal american one? Im a nub with hondas lolol dont kill me

 

naw if you did not trick the computer vtec would not work.and it was a jdm

 

You can just ground the VTEC pressure switch input (D6). The switch just completes the path to ground if the pressure is high enough, so grounding the wire constantly does the same thing. Connecting A4 to D6 is the same thing; the other side of the VTEC solenoid is always connected to ground so that works.

The ECU apparently doesn't check the pressure switch once VTEC is engaged which is strange (because A4 outputs 12V when VTEC engages, which would make D6 go to 12V also).