Hey Mustang Fags... tell me how to get 300+ rwhp out of a 5.0 NA.
Looking at Trickflow's H/C/I package for 360hp, but I'm sure a custom cam would do better... Who's still turning out good packages for 5.0s?
Also saw Edlebrock has some good stuff... seem to have a better racing manifold w/ shorter runners.
Oh... how high can a 5.0 safely rev? It's only a 2-bolt main so I don't think I'd want to wind it out too far... is 6500 rpm safe? Or should it be kept at 6000?
Just curous... might be a 5.0 in my future needing more power. Having a hard time finding answers on the mustang forums.
Also saw Edlebrock has some good stuff... seem to have a better racing manifold w/ shorter runners.
Oh... how high can a 5.0 safely rev? It's only a 2-bolt main so I don't think I'd want to wind it out too far... is 6500 rpm safe? Or should it be kept at 6000?
Just curous... might be a 5.0 in my future needing more power. Having a hard time finding answers on the mustang forums.
As far revs, it all depends. Stock block w/without girdle or aftermarket aftermarket. Stock blocks do not like high rpms for extended time periods(ie circle track). Ive seen them split in half, the only thing holding them together was the trans. Keep a stock block below 7000, depending on the application. They are factory limited at 6250, but only because they run out of power after that in stock form. Of course, it's all up to opinion.
As far as the H/C/I packages, they are predictable, but will not net you the most power obviously. A custom cam and intake for you setup would be the best, again it all depends on application. Short intake runners are great for high rpm motors, but kill low end torque. Same with large intake head ports/valves.
Theres always the 331/347 stroker option.
I had an e-cam.. With an intake, I probably would have been up around 300/320 for power.. with the Explorer heads, they're "p" heads, so the headers you have to choose from all suck, which hurts power a little.. I ran stock "p" headers with stock, gutted cats and dumped after the h, no mufflers..
Last edited by To0C0oL; Oct 28, 2007 at 12:15 PM.
You're having a hard time find H/C/I info on a mustang forum? You must not be searching very hard because with how long the 5.0L has been on the market, there have been engine dyno tests from basically every manufacturers H/C/I setup available.
As far revs, it all depends. Stock block w/without girdle or aftermarket aftermarket. Stock blocks do not like high rpms for extended time periods(ie circle track). Ive seen them split in half, the only thing holding them together was the trans. Keep a stock block below 7000, depending on the application. They are factory limited at 6250, but only because they run out of power after that in stock form. Of course, it's all up to opinion.
As far as the H/C/I packages, they are predictable, but will not net you the most power obviously. A custom cam and intake for you setup would be the best, again it all depends on application. Short intake runners are great for high rpm motors, but kill low end torque. Same with large intake head ports/valves.
Theres always the 331/347 stroker option.
As far revs, it all depends. Stock block w/without girdle or aftermarket aftermarket. Stock blocks do not like high rpms for extended time periods(ie circle track). Ive seen them split in half, the only thing holding them together was the trans. Keep a stock block below 7000, depending on the application. They are factory limited at 6250, but only because they run out of power after that in stock form. Of course, it's all up to opinion.
As far as the H/C/I packages, they are predictable, but will not net you the most power obviously. A custom cam and intake for you setup would be the best, again it all depends on application. Short intake runners are great for high rpm motors, but kill low end torque. Same with large intake head ports/valves.
Theres always the 331/347 stroker option.
I just want 300 rwhp and a broad powerband. Block is iron and stock 2 bolt.
I had an e-cam.. With an intake, I probably would have been up around 300/320 for power.. with the Explorer headers, they're "p" heads, so the headers you have to choose from all suck, which hurts power a little.. I ran stock pheaders with strock gutter cat and dumper after the h, no mufflers..







