In the market for a Jeep Wrangler, anything advice?
One thing to consider....YJs have leaf spring suspension whereas TJs (or at least some, I can't remember if it's all of them) have independent coil suspension which is more comfortable and possibly more important, is supposed to increase axle articulation when you disconnect the swaybar so you can get over bigger obstacles. Disconnecting the bar is pretty common on hardcore Jeeps. And +1 on the you'll love em.
I'm only going to be using it to cruise around and pull the jetski, maybe go on the beach every now and then but not really any Hardcore off-roading so i think a yj is ok for me, i could always upgrade down the line anyway.
I just bought a black 95 wrangler 5 speed, 4 cyl. with a 3 inch body lift, brand new all terrain t/a's and only 63k miles for $3,000. It's in decent shape, needs a new top soon and mayby a little tlc but runs good. Did I get a good deal?
I just bought a black 95 wrangler 5 speed, 4 cyl. with a 3 inch body lift, brand new all terrain t/a's and only 63k miles for $3,000. It's in decent shape, needs a new top soon and mayby a little tlc but runs good. Did I get a good deal?
Don't believe the hype from people dissing the 4cyl. I've owned 3 2.5s and as long as you're happy with the power you get... you'll never have any probs with that engine. The only prob I've EVER had was with an intake mani coming loose and that was on a new TJ (97). They covered it (warranty) even with swampers on it!! (damn well knowing it was vibrated loose). I've also owned XJs with 4.0s and although the power was nice, I had a few probs with mine (crank pos sensor, constant exhaust mani trouble, ecu needed to be reset a few times). Not bashin the 4.0 cause it's definately the key choice for wheelin, but like I said before... the 4 banger is bulletproof.
BTW, you'll get NO love from the magazines. The 1st thing they'll do on a buildup is yank out the 'anemic' 2.5 in favor of a cummins diesel. Just remember you live in the real world
BTW, you'll get NO love from the magazines. The 1st thing they'll do on a buildup is yank out the 'anemic' 2.5 in favor of a cummins diesel. Just remember you live in the real world
Last edited by DeezUU; May 7, 2008 at 05:29 AM. Reason: Cause double negatives don't not make sense.
I actually just picked up a 99 wrangler a couple weeks ago. I didnt know to much about jeeps myself, but the one I picked is a 4cyl 2.5L. I just wanted one to drive around for fun. Not doing any towing here. I picked mine up for about 5 grand, it ran perfect other than the exhaust leak which was pretty easy to fix. To bad for my exhuast leak the previous owner did not get it fixed before the recall warranty expired. If you hear somewhat of a tick but not a loud tick it could be an exhaust leak. When i took the engine apart the stud holding the exhaust manifold broke, messing with the seal. I still bought it off him and jeep sat in the garage for about two week awaiting a new exhaust manifold, studs, gaskets and the block getting cleaned. Lucky my neighbor is a certified mechanic a hall Dodge and helped out, would of costed me around 1200 to get everything done but in parts only cost about 250. I love my jeep i would say look out for jeep that have been heavily modified, mostly one that have lifts. look for rust especially in the floor pan area, the rug should be easy to move around. Personally I would stay with a 97 or above (TJ I believe they call them). I bought mine with 120,000 and she runs perfect. For the guy that rode jeep people wave, Yes they do be prepared. They only jeep people that dont wave are the one from great bridge they never wave at me.
The problem with the 2.5 is not the motor, its the damn tranny it comes with. As you said both the six and the four are bullet proof motors. Never had a one problem with mine. Granted a jet ski is not the heaviest thing to tow and the four has plenty of power to yank it around, but I wouldn't trust the tranny...unless you find a 2.5 with something like an NV4500 trans, get the 4.0
has anyone had brake problems after doing a body lift? that's the only problem with my jeep. the guy told me he had a shop do a 3 in. body lift and ever since if you drive it a long distance the brakes will start dragging and eventually lock up. I was told it might need longer brake cables... does that sound right?
I'm only going to be using it to cruise around and pull the jetski, maybe go on the beach every now and then but not really any Hardcore off-roading so i think a yj is ok for me, i could always upgrade down the line anyway.
I just bought a black 95 wrangler 5 speed, 4 cyl. with a 3 inch body lift, brand new all terrain t/a's and only 63k miles for $3,000. It's in decent shape, needs a new top soon and mayby a little tlc but runs good. Did I get a good deal?
I just bought a black 95 wrangler 5 speed, 4 cyl. with a 3 inch body lift, brand new all terrain t/a's and only 63k miles for $3,000. It's in decent shape, needs a new top soon and mayby a little tlc but runs good. Did I get a good deal?
has anyone had brake problems after doing a body lift? that's the only problem with my jeep. the guy told me he had a shop do a 3 in. body lift and ever since if you drive it a long distance the brakes will start dragging and eventually lock up. I was told it might need longer brake cables... does that sound right?
And in the real world people buy 4.0L's so they don't have to put up with the anemic 4 cyl and it's shitty trans.
Don't know how your brake lines being too short could cause that... You have hard lines that come off the master cylinder and are routed to the frame rail to each brake. There is a soft line from the frame rail to the caliper in the front and a soft line from the frame to the axle on te rear. Putting a body lift on would increase the distance between the frame and the body which would require the hard lines to be relocated or replaced. If they were relocated that would increase the length of soft line required. I'm not sure how body lifts that size work as I would never put one on something but I imagine they relocate the hard line which would require longer brake lines. As far as that making your wheels lock up, I see no way that could cause it however I would not drive it until you have that figured out and also check to see if you need longer brake lines because nothing would be worse than brake failure because of a broken brake line.






