Real vs. Fake
back to discussion:
seems like your over compensating. your wheels cost more then your car.
IMO save a little more money and buy a nicer car.
But all in all.. if you have the money, you want "real" wheels and you already have go-fast parts or aren't worried about such products then by all means buy them. but for everyone else +- 4k into wheels and tires is a waste of 4,000 * at least for wheels maybe not tires - a good set of tires can run around 1000*. personally i would rather put 3,000-3,500 into the suspension or engine and spend 500 on "fake" wheels.
also MOST of the people i know who have "real" wheels don't care about engine mods, they would rather be "all show and no go" which is fine if you want, its your car. And if your that damn stubborn on the debate of how the quality differs in "real" vs "fake" then you should actually track your car. On normal road conditions it really doesn't matter if you have rota's or works.. and under normal road conditions id rather have a cheap set of rotas in case anything happens to them ie: potholes, curbs... etc.
I personally would love "real" wheels, but like i stated above id rather put my money into the engine instead of buying new wheels, since mine already look good IMO.
But if you have "fakes" be proud, and don't try to pass them off as "real" wheels, its generally pretty easy to spot the differences.
IMO save a little more money and buy a nicer car.But all in all.. if you have the money, you want "real" wheels and you already have go-fast parts or aren't worried about such products then by all means buy them. but for everyone else +- 4k into wheels and tires is a waste of 4,000 * at least for wheels maybe not tires - a good set of tires can run around 1000*. personally i would rather put 3,000-3,500 into the suspension or engine and spend 500 on "fake" wheels.
also MOST of the people i know who have "real" wheels don't care about engine mods, they would rather be "all show and no go" which is fine if you want, its your car. And if your that damn stubborn on the debate of how the quality differs in "real" vs "fake" then you should actually track your car. On normal road conditions it really doesn't matter if you have rota's or works.. and under normal road conditions id rather have a cheap set of rotas in case anything happens to them ie: potholes, curbs... etc.
I personally would love "real" wheels, but like i stated above id rather put my money into the engine instead of buying new wheels, since mine already look good IMO.
But if you have "fakes" be proud, and don't try to pass them off as "real" wheels, its generally pretty easy to spot the differences.
And if your that damn stubborn on the debate of how the quality differs in "real" vs "fake" then you should actually track your car. On normal road conditions it really doesn't matter if you have rota's or works.. and under normal road conditions id rather have a cheap set of rotas in case anything happens to them ie: potholes, curbs... etc.
Normal street driving is WAY harder on a wheel than track use.
And when you put a BBS into a pothole you have a much better chance of driving away than if you put a Rota into a pothole. People can say the quality is the same and a wheel's a wheel and all that until they're blue in the face. That doesn't make it true.
Of course I've never personally experienced a Rota breaking. What kind of silly question is that?
And track use IS harder on tires. Nobody is arguing tires here.
But unless you spend more time off the track than on your basic drive to work is more demanding than your average track session.
When was the last time you saw "For street use only" on a wheel? Exactly.
And track use IS harder on tires. Nobody is arguing tires here.
But unless you spend more time off the track than on your basic drive to work is more demanding than your average track session.
When was the last time you saw "For street use only" on a wheel? Exactly.
Of course I've never personally experienced a Rota breaking. What kind of silly question is that?
And track use IS harder on tires. Nobody is arguing tires here.
But unless you spend more time off the track than on your basic drive to work is more demanding than your average track session.
When was the last time you saw "For street use only" on a wheel? Exactly.
And track use IS harder on tires. Nobody is arguing tires here.
But unless you spend more time off the track than on your basic drive to work is more demanding than your average track session.
When was the last time you saw "For street use only" on a wheel? Exactly.
sure you could go and post the picture that spread throughout the internet of a rota snapping, but we don't know the actual circumstances under which it broke, unless you can find the story to prove that it was due to poor quality then post it up.
also, if it passes D.O.T. regulations HOW is it ANY different from any other then just a name.
give this a read aswell:
(explains how your wrong)
-also explains how any wheel imported must have a stamp PROVING it was tested to strict Japanese wheel standards.
http://www.cartype.com/pages/2101/jw...n_alloy_wheels
Last edited by enot767; Dec 25, 2009 at 08:17 PM.





