Figured that I would share... somebody else seen my girls pipe and wanted me to cut theirs down... He loves it.

 

Wanna cut down my MIG high-mount? I was looking at getting a GYTR shorty, but this might do the trick for the time being.

 

I know 03-05 1000 headers bolt right up to 01-05 600/750's which they claim are an improvement over the stock headers and also save weight

A proper 600 exhaust that looks good can you please point one out to me, M4 doesnt mount their can in the location I am looking for for the 600

If i did sprockets i would have to invest in a speedohealer which would be a waste right now because i will most likely not be riding on the street next year after i get my truck fixed

If I oculd find a full exhaut for 700 i would scoop it up and not think twice

 

I would have to see the bike and the exhaust and you would have to let me know what it is that your wanting.

 

Not a recent pic, but hasn't really changed. Wanted to cut it down to GP style and mount it to the footpeg, since I removed my passenger pegs.

 

i can probably do that... will still have to see the pipe though... I did that to my girls.

 

Word. I'll get with you. Not free til the weekend, really.

 

unless you have internal motor work, throwing a full system on your bike is a waste of money. Stock headers flow so well, that on a stock motor, you're not going to see any substantial improvement. And going to such a bigger pipe diameter is going to kill your torque curve at anything but real high rpms. If you want to spend a couple hundred bucks on a 1/2 pound lighter header, that's your choice, but IMO, there are much better places to put that money to use if you want better performance.

there are, in my experience, 2 exceptions to that. I've seen some pretty decent gains with Micron "serpent" full systems, and ti-force full systems, but both of those particular exhausts are on the pricey side (though the serpent systems are freakin gorgeous).That's just my experience though, and lord knows there's a billion other full systems out there that I haven't had any tuning experience with. I'm sure they all have thier good points and bad points, but in general, for the average street rider, a slip-on/bolt-on/half system is more than you'll ever need, unless you plan on building the motor at some point.

just my .02

 

^ yeah thats why they have shown to gain power on the dyno with a nice fuel tune.

good luck finding a micron, they are out of business, you need to be looking at a arata, akrapovic, striker, hamaguchi, arrow, Leo Vince, etc... they command top dollar because they have quality welds and best gains. theyre not like the cheap yoshi or DnD where its the same system, reworked to fit every bike.
I have a micron serpent system, and while its good, im glad i got it on blow out and didnt pay full price, as fit isnt the best, nor is finish.

just throwing on a better flowing system, wont do it, a lot of times that will kill torque as dude said, there is a million dollar science behind these exhaust systems, and with these especially, you get what you pay for. To take advantage of a full system you need to dyno tune, or auto tune it to make the best of the sytem, otherwise youre essentially making minimum gains and not getting the full value of your money.

a supersport build is simply full system, intake, and trimmed head for higher CR, sometimes valve jobs and porting... they make sizable gains with that.
you go to any forum or reputable bike shop and ask, they will tell you, a full system is great, but u must have the proper map to maximize its power gains, otherewise its mostly weight saving and sweet looks and nice sound. anyone that tells you otherwise doesnt know wtf theyre talking about.


a speedohealer is never a waste, how do you figure that. the speedo is about 5% optimistic from the factory as required by law, thats 5% top end you lose, and if you have timing retardation like most gixxers do, you lose out there too, so thats 5% earlier that your speedo will max out and tell thr ecu to hold your speed, thats 5% more miles than actual. add sprockets, ge tthe torque youre looking for and be able to shoot off the line MUCH faster, and get a speedo healer and correct it, you can even tune it down to the tire size if you run a 190... street or not, thats a plus... that also means w/o a corrected speedo, when u go by mr trooper at 55 youre not really doing 55, youre doing less, so i dont know about you, but that annoys me, im not one to do less than the posted limit, even infront of mr law, i want to do exactly 55 so he cant say sh1t. if you do sporckets if you do like -1/+2 you will be doing like 45 and displaying like 55, typically, simple fix get a healer, problem solved and u can lead the pack knowing your speedo is dead accurate.
Dont know about u, but i hate riding behind the dude with the crazy sprockets and no healer... way to slow and take forever to get where we're going.

 

I said a noticeable gain, and by that, i mean with "the butt dyno". most people won't notice a 2-5hp difference at any given RPM. There's just too many variables. (road conditions, weather, throttle position, wind, whatever) for anyone to really notice that much of a difference. And even then it doesn't mean THAT much, as pretty much every bike that anyone here owns, runs an open loop FI system, so the ECU can only compensate for things like temp/humidity/etc but so much. If they could, no one would ever have the need for a power commander or any other FI controller. A closed loop/ wide band 02 sensored bike would auto adjust to whatever the conditions were.

Now you show me a pipe, on the same bike, on the same day, on the same dyno, that makes a 20hp difference BY ITSELF, tuned or not, then I'll retract that statement.