I needed more so I got 4 and they only purge threw bendy straws coming out of my hood so i can be cool like Paul Walker when I pull up next to all the chents, and hicks.

Thanks i lurkn on your signature, so you do tuning, and other work on dsms? My tune is some shit, it's running rich as hell, it breaks up with anything more than a 1/4 throttle

 

Yes he's our go to guy here in VA for tuning DSM's. Tsk tsk i just gave a head away for free a few weeks ago, i def would of gave it to you if this thread was about 10 days older.

 

Tunzorz r ok, dak touches leave much to be desired












but really he tuned my car (2.3l, pte SC63, built head, ecmlink v3/speed density) and does great work take it to him

 

Thanks this is really good to know, but its all good i already picked up another semi complete head.


Lmfao, I will be contacting him as soon as this shit is back together.

 

Well, I'm a little bit of a noob to DSM so I'll post what little I know.

1) You going to need a rebuild, so when you take the front case off. Check out the oil pump gears. I've seen that amount of damage only one time and that was from a seized oil pump.

2) Swapping out valve guides is pretty expensive if you do it the right way. Old valves get pressed out with a special tool and in most case the new ones are frozen and slid in then heated back up to expand them. Then the center is bored out with a small ball and impact hammer. The guides also serve the purpose to remove heat from the valves. The retard machine shop (Cooper Automotive) cut mine flush to the head like a push-rod, V8. Good thing I caught it. Otherwise I may have eaten a valve myself in my shiny new motor.

3) On the oversized valves thing, I would REALLY reconsider that. Some shops have seen better flow on a stock head with stock valves vs. a stock head with 1mm+ valves. No one really can seem figure out why. There is a shop in MD that talked about actually losing power when they went with oversized valves and actually put a head back on with STD valves and saw gains. I can't find that thread, but here is one from 2005.link. Note, Polk used to be a 4G63 head guru.

The most common thing to do is get a port and polish. This seems to yield the most power per dollar out of a 4G63 head. Strictly Import Motorsports (SIM) did my head for $300. Plus for another $200 correctly installed in valve guides. Or they can just reuse your old ones for $300. My head is currently a stage 2 from SIM.

Eye Candy:



In my opinion they could have deburred around the valve seat a little more, but you're not going to find a better deal for $300. Polks Stage 1 which is just light work in the bowl costs $675. http://polkperformance.com/heads.html

4) The N/T and Turbo 91-94 throttle bodies are both 60mm. They aresome people claiming they are 63mm but they claim this by saying the "half-shaft" mod give the throttle body more space. Which really doesn't make since. I am currently running an N/T throttle body. I would go with the Q45 throttle body if you are going to go with a JMF Manifold. 90mm of open goodness, you can find them in junkyards for cheap AND it has a neck on it so you can just run a coupler straight off off it.

5) I do my own tuning. Of course this is the same reason why I am building the motor in the first place. In my defense some retard set DSMLink to ignore knock until 7900RPM while the previous owner owned it and sense the rev limiter stopped at 7750RPM I was never going to know it was knocking.

 

This was really helpful thanks and i'm def. rethinking the oversized valve route. Thats just more money i have to spend on machining. Anyone want to buy some black nitrate coated 1mm oversized valves? Next time i go to the junkyard I'll try and snatch up a Q45 TB. So i read the whole debate on engine management over on dsmtuners, do you prefer DSMlink over AEM? when it comes to tuning?

 

I prefer ECmlink, it seems more user friendly. We all arent as smart as Dave so AEM makes me feel a little slow lol. Plus DSM/ECMlink has a pretty good support forum.

 

I only have experience tuning with DSMLink, so I can't really make a fair assessment. I have looked through the AEM software before and the best way I can describe it is.

DSMLink has about 97% of the functionality that AEM has at about 53% of the price. Plus DSMLink has some pretty cool tools like integrated MAF Translation.

 

not even close. ECMlink does about 10% of what AEM does. If even that much. Do you NEED that much control? Probably not. V3 finally caught up ECMlink to where it should have been 5 years ago. But still is nothing compared to AEM EMS. There are upsides and downsides to each. The main downside to AEM is user friendliness, and the way it reads the Mitsu crank trigger is less than desirable, which results in tricky cold start management, especially on E85. AEM can be overwhelming for a non-experienced tuner, because there's so much you HAVE to dial in. It's a standalone so even with a "basemap" you're pretty far off. ECMlink is sortof like a summary. Only the stuff you REALLY need is there, on top of a stock ECU template, you have a much easier starting point. All the compensation math is done for you. But if you're brave enough to go for it, AEM has a lot more I/O flexibility, more precise/flexible fuel and timing mapping with more complete coverage (able to cover full range of sensors, unlike ECMlink that stops at 28-30ish PSI), better closed loop control, better boost control, higher datalogging rate, internal datalogging, I could go on and on for a long time about all the advantages. Hell the biggest one is being true real time.

Most people don't need all that stuff though. For your average low hp application like < 600whp, unless you have a specific need for something AEM does that ECMlink doesn't, you are better off with ECMlink for the ease of use and isntall and initial setup. If you plan on cranking the boost up beyond low 30s, and running some complex setups that require a lot of changes in compensation maths, then you need AEM. ECMlink can be skewed and tricked into extending the timing maps into the mid 30s, I've done this for customers a bunch of times, but if you go too far with it, starts skewing other things too much that you may not want to skew. Top row of ECMlink timing map is only 28-30ish PSI. I have made 700+ whp and ran 40+ PSI on ECMlink before though. so it can do it. Just gotta know how to deal with the shortcomings.

As far as the big valves, I've never seen anything but gain from the big valves. Generally on 4G heads the valve job and bowl work are what gets the noticeable gains, from what I've seen. Port work doesn't seem to do a whole lot. Most old heads need valve jobs anyways since half of them have slammed valves into pistons before due to incompetent mechanics or failure to maintain. I personally don't like to use the big valves though because I like to use huge cams and play with valve timing a lot, so I like to have all the valve/valve and piston/valve clearance I can get. If you have a piston with a decent flycut and GOOD valve springs then usually you are still ok with a big valve on a big cam. valve/valve clearance is just as important as piston/valve, if your springs are wrong you can float or bounce a valve edge to edge against the opposing valve. Not pretty.

Q45 is a good junkyard throttle body. But it's much bigger than you need, and ugly as hell. Inlet is 3.5 or 4" IIRC. I like the boomba and S90 throttle bodies. Wilson is nice too but a bitch to set up since you have to adapt all the ford stuff. Then again I've been 9s and 700+ whp on stock throttle body too.

 

Ah come'on. 10% of the functionality is a bit of exaggeration. Plenty of people have tapped into 10's with DSMLink. The EMS is really only necessary at break-neck amounts of horsepower. Other than that I trust your knowledge on everything else.