Good auto cross/daily driver car?
as far as the dealership HAVING to do the work, i would say that is the case with newer BMW's as there are so many computer and electronically controlled aspects. Ive had much of the electrical of my car ripped apart to do various installs/"fixes" and have yet to encounter a problem I could not take care of. The forums out there for BMW's and E36's in specific have tons of info from people that do exactly what you are trying to do. I wouldnt be that worried about it...theyre great cars
I have worked on plenty of cars. I do all my own maintenance. However, all I hear are horror stories about electrical problems and ignition issues, high priced replacement parts, special tools, and things that HAVE to be fixed by a dealership.
I am not speaking from experience as I have never owned or worked on one before. Just going by what I have heard/read. I have known one person who had a BMW. The ignition switch went along with some wire and ended up paying like $300 just in parts+labor. I don't know the exact model of the car, but I do know it was a mid 90's 6cyl coupe. I drove it. I loved it. I wanted one. Until I heard that and they told not to buy a BMW.
Trust me I'd love to buy a BMW.
I am not speaking from experience as I have never owned or worked on one before. Just going by what I have heard/read. I have known one person who had a BMW. The ignition switch went along with some wire and ended up paying like $300 just in parts+labor. I don't know the exact model of the car, but I do know it was a mid 90's 6cyl coupe. I drove it. I loved it. I wanted one. Until I heard that and they told not to buy a BMW.
Trust me I'd love to buy a BMW.
Interesting. Never had a problem, owned mine 2 years, have 158k miles on it, Have seen 12k track miles under my use....and I had a power-steering hose blow. $12 later it was fixed. Now I did have ignition coil issues this past track weekend =$25 for a new coil. 30+ autoxes and 11+ track weekends? Meh, thats easy compared to any of my friend's subarus, sentras, or my own dsm (nightmare).
That said, if your not up for taking care of maintenance beforehand, please stay away. People that wait till shit breaks (such as balljoints with 150k miles and not replacing them), are just asking for problems.
Interesting. Never had a problem, owned mine 2 years, have 158k miles on it, Have seen 12k track miles under my use....and I had a power-steering hose blow. $12 later it was fixed. Now I did have ignition coil issues this past track weekend =$25 for a new coil. 30+ autoxes and 11+ track weekends? Meh, thats easy compared to any of my friend's subarus, sentras, or my own dsm (nightmare).
That said, if your not up for taking care of maintenance beforehand, please stay away. People that wait till shit breaks (such as balljoints with 150k miles and not replacing them), are just asking for problems.
That said, if your not up for taking care of maintenance beforehand, please stay away. People that wait till shit breaks (such as balljoints with 150k miles and not replacing them), are just asking for problems.
Another thing... anything you track will need upkeep and maitenance. If you're not prepared to be checking the car over after each event and fixing it as needed then don't get into the hobby.
I have worked on plenty of cars. I do all my own maintenance. However, all I hear are horror stories about electrical problems and ignition issues, high priced replacement parts, special tools, and things that HAVE to be fixed by a dealership.
I am not speaking from experience as I have never owned or worked on one before. Just going by what I have heard/read. I have known one person who had a BMW. The ignition switch went along with some wire and ended up paying like $300 just in parts+labor. I don't know the exact model of the car, but I do know it was a mid 90's 6cyl coupe. I drove it. I loved it. I wanted one. Until I heard that and they told not to buy a BMW.
Trust me I'd love to buy a BMW.
I am not speaking from experience as I have never owned or worked on one before. Just going by what I have heard/read. I have known one person who had a BMW. The ignition switch went along with some wire and ended up paying like $300 just in parts+labor. I don't know the exact model of the car, but I do know it was a mid 90's 6cyl coupe. I drove it. I loved it. I wanted one. Until I heard that and they told not to buy a BMW.
Trust me I'd love to buy a BMW.

I think you've been misinformed.
Parts for my Subaru were more costly than any BMW I owned with the exception of my 540i/6.. I've owned e30/e36/e34/e39 and never had any electrical problems or anything that required me to take them to the dealership. You can get into a well sorted 3 series for under 5k leaving you a healthy amount set aside for either modifications or maintenance.
I might get flammed for saying this, but go for a 1stgen Neon ACR. The Acr had adjustable Koni's from the factory from 97-99, no options, lightest body avail, disc brakes all around, rear sway, thicker hubs... The sedan came with the sohc2.0 and the coupe came with the dohc2.0. Cheap, reliable, easy to work on, ready for the track, or your daily driving. Srt-4 engine swap is always an option, or a plain old N/A Chrysler 2.4.
Last edited by IntenseBlueR/T; Oct 19, 2011 at 03:35 PM.
I might get flammed for saying this, but go for a 1stgen Neon ACR. The Acr had adjustable Koni's from the factory from 97-99, no options, lightest body avail, disc brakes all around, rear sway, thicker hubs... The sedan came with the sohc2.0 and the coupe came with the dohc2.0. Cheap, reliable, easy to work on, ready for the track, or your daily driving. Srt-4 engine swap is always an option, or a plain old N/A Chrysler 2.4.
yes you will
drive your POS neon off a cliff
I might get flammed for saying this, but go for a 1stgen Neon ACR. The Acr had adjustable Koni's from the factory from 97-99, no options, lightest body avail, disc brakes all around, rear sway, thicker hubs... The sedan came with the sohc2.0 and the coupe came with the dohc2.0. Cheap, reliable, easy to work on, ready for the track, or your daily driving. Srt-4 engine swap is always an option, or a plain old N/A Chrysler 2.4.
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