Only reason I wouldn't do blocks is I've seen them come unseated an cause all kinds of issues. But in a 4wheeling application. They make degree shims to place in between the axle and leafs to adjust pinion angle.

SYE Kit gets rid of the slip yoke end on the rear output of the transfer case. You install a fixed yoke. Then you have a CV driveshaft an usually a double cardion joint to allow more degree of angle the driveshaft can move.

 

Reading some an not being able to crawl under your truck to see everything you should have the NP205 transfer case. Very strong case and guys usually add a 203 transfer case to make a doubler setup out of it.

Since you are going 6inches, have a long wheel base and can correct your pinion angle with either blocks or shims I wouldn't worry to much about the transfer case. If you install everything an still get a bad driveshaft angle or have vibrations, add a tcase drop kit. I don't think they make a SYE kit for a NP205 case. Usually find SYE kits for Jeeps because of the short wheel base.

 

I don't think you will have to touch the drive shaft. A friend of mine had one we put 1-ton axles on and he was running 38's on a 6" lift with fender cut outs. We did not touch the front drive shaft and never had an issue

 

Ok, I will take what JB and you said and see what happens.

Just lift it, and if I feel any vibrations, I will start playing with angles.

If the kit comes with a Transfer drop for $30, I will get it and use it as needed.

The One ton axles might get switch around eventually, they are not that expensive. I want to throw some different gears in there as well. This will be mostly for Towing, and not a DD, so I was thinking some 4.56's, The heaviest thing I would be towing would be a 24' dual axle camper, so I think with the 4.56 and maybe 1 ton axles That should suffice for my towing needs, correct? I will prob throw in a upgraded Trans cooler as well.

 

what axles do you have in there now? gonna throw in a locker?

 

Its a 1500, so 1/2 ton?

 

If you are towing here is what I'd do. The rear axle on your rig is most likely a 10bolt or 12 bolt. Should be a 30spline shaft axle. Although decently strong, throwing 35's, 4.56 gears an towing may cause troubles down the road for you but I doubt it because they are decently strong axles, its just the brake setup isn't as good. You can find a 14bolt semi float of a full floater for CHEAP, I mean if you pay more then $200 for one with drum brakes you should keep looking. They make disc conversions for this axle or you can run the drum brakes. The semi float is a 3/4ton axle and the full floater is a 1 ton. Thats where a lot of your weight is going to be when towing. Make sure to have a good trailer brake installed. For the front axle you could leave it an upgrade to a better brake system or swap it out for a bigger axle. But I don't think you really need to unless you don't have a lot of options with the front brakes and the lug pattern is different. But they do make hub adapters to convert from say a 6 lug to an 8 lug. Your front axle most likely is a 10 bolt front axle an I believe factory gearing a was 3.42 gear ratio in your truck. You can check this my turning the drive shaft, counting how many times it does one revolution, put a piece of tape on the tire an turn it 360 degrees. The driveshaft should turn 3 1/2 times to one rotation of the tire. Might be a metal tag on the diff cover also to indicate gear ratio.

What ever axles you find make sure the spring perches are the same distance as what yours is so it's an easy bolt in swap. You will also have to match up lug nuts, you probably have 6lug wheels, can't remember if a 14bolt semi float comes in 6lug or 8lug....if you can find a 3/4 ton suburban then just pull the axles from that. A lot of surplus Chevy trucks ran a 14bolt an a lot of them came with 4.56gears an a detroit locker in them from the factory.

Good luck. I know of a friend who has a 14bolt in the garage I have two dana 70 rear axles in my garage, not sure if one would work.

edit: Great place to find info, ask questions is www.pirate4x4.com

 

456'S and 35's will be fine for towing what you have planned. I have 456's with 38's..plenty of umph and gear. Chevy may be a tad different, but 456 was as steep as I could go without changing the carrier, even though I did change them. Just something to think about.

 

Thanks for all your help. My plan was to try and find a 3/4 ton Chevy and pull that rear out. I want to do the front also, because It is 4x4 and I do not want to have two different Gear ratios, and also I do not want to have a 6 lug and a 8 lug.

All this is new to me, so I am trying to understand it all and look up as much info as possible.

 

I'm a lot more help with Jeep and Ford stuff because of hands on knowledge and researching the crap out of it....because I have a few Jeeps, I have ford axles in the garage, my dad has is 86 F150 at my house....so I can tell you a lot about them.

Chevy I don't know what axles came under what unless it was the 14bolt because I was looking to swap one into my Jeep.

Either way you'll end up regearing both axles (whatever axles you go with since you want to go to 4.56gears). Hub adapters are available if you have one axle that is a 6lug an one thats a 8lug. I'd be more concerned with beefing up the brakes, making sure the suspension can handle the load you are wanting to tow, a good hitch system and a good brake assist controller for the trailer you are towing. Safety first. Also look into adding a better trans cooler, probably add a oil cooler if you can budget for it.

Gotta remember you are putting a huge stress on engine/drivetrain temperatures an heat kills automatics. Plus you want to stop you and the load you are hauling. It sucks being pushed by what you are hauling because your vehicle doesn't have the brakes to stop it.