sepulchral

make sure your mas airflow sensor is fine and the connections to it are good too

Greaser

that pot on the side of the ecu is to send it into code reading mode. if you have a nissan consult hooked up then you could adjust idle with that knob but who has a 1500 consult? haha

Wickedy Wick

i had so many problems with my SR rough idle that it has been finally fixed and then i sold it, i hate myself for that. get ready its going to be a long post Everything i did

new stuff i bought to make sure

I bought a brand new maf
fuel filter
fuel pump 255
coolant temp sensor
pcv
NGK plug gapped around .032 .030 .028 thats what phase2 told me
check coil packs unplug one at a time while the car is running and see if you notice a difference if not then that one is bad same with the injectors

coilpacks tend to be a problem, bought all four on ebay for 50 bucks ,made my sr idle better but it still kept rising and falling, it had a rough start still before and after the coilpack change

one of my problems was the air intake needs a GOOD bracket so that the maf does not jump around while driving

I also had a greddy BOV type-s leak. after reving my idle would drop to like 2k and i could feel air coming out of it for like 1min. no matter what the setting was. So i took one of the springs out and it works like a charm now

next set the timing

let the car warm up for like 15min the FSM says to rev it up to 3k like three times and hold the idle around 2k for 1min. turn the car off and unplug the tps, turn the car back on and let it idle for like 5min rev to 3k three times and the car should be in timing mode. you should only adjust the IACV only when the tps is disconnected.

actually you should set the tps at the correct position before setting timing
"Leave the tps plug plugged in. Turn the key to the 2nd position but do not start car. Take a sewing needle and stick it in the middle wire (white) right before it goes into the back of the plug. Take a voltmeter and touch the black probe to the ground on your battery and the red probe to the needle. Losen the two 7mm bolts holdig the sensor (may have to remove the adjacent coolant line) Reading should read 0.45-0.55 volts at closed throttle and increase as you turn the throttle body pulley until it reaches over 4.0 volts at WOT. Tighten everything back"

recently my problem was a bad injector that caused a fucked up idel so i bought a fuel rail and four injectors from phase2motortrend.com for 150.00 my injectors looked really ugly from underneath black and brown.

ScrewD03

you said idle jumps up and down then you need idle air control valve...

Wickedy Wick

^ my BOV was causing that problem, I still have the same IACV and the car ran great before i sold it. The only think i did was clean it and not sure if that helped. it was a bunch of other shit

ScrewD03

or you just have a leaking hose somewhere...

Greaser

sell the factory shit and go standalone. tec 3 with GM sensors is where its at.