Need some wire tuck advie!
07-25-2010, 06:10 PM
#11
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Re: Need some wire tuck advie!
the Purge valve is on the charcoal canister. You shouldn't be messing with the fuel pressure regulator, there is no valve for it either, it is the "valve".
As far as codes I'm sure there will be emissions related, which ones I dont know. Not only that the charcoal canister keeps fuel vapors trapped there until the vehicle is running and then pulls that vapors into the engine to be used.
As far as codes I'm sure there will be emissions related, which ones I dont know. Not only that the charcoal canister keeps fuel vapors trapped there until the vehicle is running and then pulls that vapors into the engine to be used.
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07-25-2010, 06:56 PM
#12
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Re: Need some wire tuck advie!
what you're wanting to do is not difficult at all but pretty time consuming, I went through the same process over the winter and spring to re-do my bay while I was building my motor... I'll be happy to share pictures with you if you think it might help you.
I removed the charcoal canister altogether, I haven't had any issues or anything and don't expect any , really... I don't have carpet or anything in my interior, until I had all the part I needed for my build I re-did my interior as well. It was completely disassembled, sound deadening material removed and pretty much stripped to the metal, then primed and painted. I wanted a really clean look inside as well so I removed all three hard fuel lines and replaced the feed and return line with steel braided braided lines running through the frame of the car, the third one os connected to the charcoal canister, I simply got rid of it al together and at the gas tank end I just placed a small filter.
I went to Advance auto parts and bought a spool of Hard brake lines, it was 25' for about $20.00, my car (93 gs-r) had abs, I removed everything related to it and re-routed new hard lines, from the master cylinder through a small whole on the firewall to the proportioning valve mounted on the inside of the firewall, then from there through the passenger and driver side frame, the length of every line to each wheel is exactly the same. I would highly suggest that! some 3/16" Stainless hard line and a Harbor freight flaring tool did the trick for me...
For the fuel I did exactly what the other guys were telling you, use an inline filter. Mine is mounted on the inside of my firewall with some brackets I made and rubber washers.
I know this is a lot of information here, man... feel free to contact me if you want some additional help. Like I said, I' m happy to share some pics...
I removed the charcoal canister altogether, I haven't had any issues or anything and don't expect any , really... I don't have carpet or anything in my interior, until I had all the part I needed for my build I re-did my interior as well. It was completely disassembled, sound deadening material removed and pretty much stripped to the metal, then primed and painted. I wanted a really clean look inside as well so I removed all three hard fuel lines and replaced the feed and return line with steel braided braided lines running through the frame of the car, the third one os connected to the charcoal canister, I simply got rid of it al together and at the gas tank end I just placed a small filter.
I went to Advance auto parts and bought a spool of Hard brake lines, it was 25' for about $20.00, my car (93 gs-r) had abs, I removed everything related to it and re-routed new hard lines, from the master cylinder through a small whole on the firewall to the proportioning valve mounted on the inside of the firewall, then from there through the passenger and driver side frame, the length of every line to each wheel is exactly the same. I would highly suggest that! some 3/16" Stainless hard line and a Harbor freight flaring tool did the trick for me...
For the fuel I did exactly what the other guys were telling you, use an inline filter. Mine is mounted on the inside of my firewall with some brackets I made and rubber washers.
I know this is a lot of information here, man... feel free to contact me if you want some additional help. Like I said, I' m happy to share some pics...
07-25-2010, 07:09 PM
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07-26-2010, 11:18 AM
#14
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Re: Need some wire tuck advie!
what you're wanting to do is not difficult at all but pretty time consuming, I went through the same process over the winter and spring to re-do my bay while I was building my motor... I'll be happy to share pictures with you if you think it might help you.
I removed the charcoal canister altogether, I haven't had any issues or anything and don't expect any , really... I don't have carpet or anything in my interior, until I had all the part I needed for my build I re-did my interior as well. It was completely disassembled, sound deadening material removed and pretty much stripped to the metal, then primed and painted. I wanted a really clean look inside as well so I removed all three hard fuel lines and replaced the feed and return line with steel braided braided lines running through the frame of the car, the third one os connected to the charcoal canister, I simply got rid of it al together and at the gas tank end I just placed a small filter.
I went to Advance auto parts and bought a spool of Hard brake lines, it was 25' for about $20.00, my car (93 gs-r) had abs, I removed everything related to it and re-routed new hard lines, from the master cylinder through a small whole on the firewall to the proportioning valve mounted on the inside of the firewall, then from there through the passenger and driver side frame, the length of every line to each wheel is exactly the same. I would highly suggest that! some 3/16" Stainless hard line and a Harbor freight flaring tool did the trick for me...
For the fuel I did exactly what the other guys were telling you, use an inline filter. Mine is mounted on the inside of my firewall with some brackets I made and rubber washers.
I know this is a lot of information here, man... feel free to contact me if you want some additional help. Like I said, I' m happy to share some pics...
I removed the charcoal canister altogether, I haven't had any issues or anything and don't expect any , really... I don't have carpet or anything in my interior, until I had all the part I needed for my build I re-did my interior as well. It was completely disassembled, sound deadening material removed and pretty much stripped to the metal, then primed and painted. I wanted a really clean look inside as well so I removed all three hard fuel lines and replaced the feed and return line with steel braided braided lines running through the frame of the car, the third one os connected to the charcoal canister, I simply got rid of it al together and at the gas tank end I just placed a small filter.
I went to Advance auto parts and bought a spool of Hard brake lines, it was 25' for about $20.00, my car (93 gs-r) had abs, I removed everything related to it and re-routed new hard lines, from the master cylinder through a small whole on the firewall to the proportioning valve mounted on the inside of the firewall, then from there through the passenger and driver side frame, the length of every line to each wheel is exactly the same. I would highly suggest that! some 3/16" Stainless hard line and a Harbor freight flaring tool did the trick for me...
For the fuel I did exactly what the other guys were telling you, use an inline filter. Mine is mounted on the inside of my firewall with some brackets I made and rubber washers.
I know this is a lot of information here, man... feel free to contact me if you want some additional help. Like I said, I' m happy to share some pics...
you can just pm them to me. but where are you located? any extra hands wont hurt if your down to help? hahnice one here
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...ight=wire+tuck
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...ight=wire+tuck
Last edited by Integra2Be; 07-26-2010 at 11:32 AM.
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