B20 -
84 bore, 89 stroke.
Exactly the same specs otherwise. (Although there is a special B20 head with larger valves if I recall)

That makes the only major advantages in the B20 the added displacement, a slightly better bore/stroke combination, and a camshaft that isn't as radical in relation to the size of the engine, so it does produce a wider powerband, with a little less top end, but more overall useable power.

From the standpoint of getting more power without a VTEC head, a turbo is a relatively inexpensive upgrade path, and so is Nitrous. Bolt-ons will give you gains, but you'll get more for less overall with either of the first options.

Any open deck design could prove problems with boost, but fact is, cylinder pressures cause failures, not boost pressures. Worse yet, 99.99% of the time, it's not a matter of too much cylinder pressure, but instead, detonation trying to force the pistons the wrong way, which cause the cylinders to walk.

IF you were going to use one for boost, the lower the compression the better. Simply put, most factory designed, boosted cars, have 8.5:1 or lower compression ratios. There is a reason for that. I won't get into the complexities of static versus dyanmic compression, timing, etc., but there's a good article out there from some people who made over 600 whp on a stock sleeved B16, and it wasn't by accident.....

Low-Boost applications (up to about 15 lbs) designed for racing, may be as high as 9:1 or a little more, but most high-boost applications are much lower, some at or lower than 7:1.

IF you're looking to get around 200 hp, Nitrous will be the cheapest, easiest method. (About 1K to do it right)
IF you're looking for 170, bolt-ons may be the option of choice. (Less than Nitrous)
IF you want 250-300, then the Turbo is the option of choice. (About 2500 to do it right)

IF you want advice, just ask. Fabrik8 is a good source for info on safe tuning.

 

Same specs as what? I'd consider sleeve "size"/liner gap/manufacturing a specification, that's not the same as a B16/B18. The P8R head is the one with larger intake valves.

I've given him props, there are others floating around as well to say the least.

As to bringing up (even if so slightly) "S"CR and DCR, goodness, cam specs, HG thickness, head milling, cylinder boring and VE oh my.

 

They're practically identical in all the major specs.
Bore is the only major difference.
In fact, the Crank/Rods, head, and all head parts are directly interchangeable and identical.
The Bore Size makes for the only key differences in the engine.
As for the sleeves, the B20 sleeves appear to be identical in design, but with a thicker outer layer. That specific material appears to be quite ductile/malleable, and is probably used to improve heat transfer to the coolant. The ,fact that it has a larger, heavier piston may somewhat offset the gains in bore/stroke to increase side loading a bit, espeically as the rod/stroke is the same, and this may be a cause of some failures at high RPM's, but in terms of boost, psi doesn't matter. Proof? I've seen a high enough quantity blown at 9-11 psi to match those that tried to run higher. As a general rule, they have something in common - They ran out of fuel, or the boost was cranked without re-tuning.

The example I gave earlier, was a stock sleeve B16, on something near 30 psi.... It had low compression pistons, cams that reduced the DCR, and a big-ass turbo, but it's not boost pressure that kills...

The B20B is a very good choice (Pre 98) as it has 8.8:1 compression. IF I were looking to boost a stock Honda, that's my first option.
From there, I'd make sure I had large enough injectors to handle the power I want to make. That would be 650cc's for about 300 hp. I don't want to turn up the pressure, and sacrifice the quality of the spray pattern, to get enough fuel, and I want plenty of overhead to run it rich. Factory tuned cars run 10:1 at redline.
Next up, is to make sure the timing is conservative, as at lower power levels, pounds of boost can be more advantage than degrees of timing. I'd work on getting the boost level to where I want, then bring in timing slowly, all while making sure it's still rich.
Where this platform lacks, is in the knock sensor area. An aftermarket knock sensor might be a very good idea, and a certain tuning company who's specialty is Subies, actually makes one you can mount in the car...

Anyways, that's an opinion.
But then again, I also feel like a .48 A/R T3 Turbine side, with a small T04E compressor side would be a better option than a 60 trim with a .63 A/R Stage 3 exhaust side, especially for the lower power levels.....

But, then again, I probably am missing something in the dynamics

 

so what all would i have to do to make my jdm b20b into a b20 vtec what parts and what need to been done, thinking about doing it maybe with a gsr head?

 

No, B20B sleeves are a "single" sleeve design, with different splines as well. Heat dissipation from sleeve to core (block) isn't as efficient as well.

I wasn't debating this. I've tuned a 450+whp stock B16, a few have gotten even more out of their stock B16's (haven't had enough ballsy customers ever with the B16 platform that is). I'm only discussing the B20B sleeves.

Well then, I'd recommend turning up the pressure to 43 p.s.i.g if you don't which to degrade the spray pattern or change the resistance/tolerance of the injectors from specification.

This one is left field too, at least for this thread. <grin> Regardless, for reduced lag and responsive torque curve at 300-350 range, perhaps - depends now if we're introducing gear/rpm controlled boost or not.

 

which is better for a b20 deck 226mm or211.5mm?

 

i hate these threads. SEARCH!!!!

 

umm i have that why i am asking poeple who may know a lot more than meif you dont like what i ask dont look at it

 

so the b20 is good for boost is it better to make it vtec of the b18 better?

 

go vtec. are you planning to go boosted? if you dont want to go vtec then get a p8r, basically a vtec head without the vtec hah.