megan racing 96-00 civic camber kit?
#11
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The Megan arms look like they're probably a lot less stiff, just going by the open front of the adjustment box and a few other things like that. The Skunk units look like they have a lot more attention to proper radii where everything joins together, etc.
If you don't like the socket head cap screws on the skunk2 units, get a better grade of cap screw or switch them out to decent hex head machine screws. If the cap screws are rounding out, that's usually a poor quality screw and a poor quality (out of tolerance) hex key.
Just looking at the pictures of the two, I'd go with the Sunk2. The Megan pieces look lighter, but they also look like they need some better design work before I'd use them.
If you don't like the socket head cap screws on the skunk2 units, get a better grade of cap screw or switch them out to decent hex head machine screws. If the cap screws are rounding out, that's usually a poor quality screw and a poor quality (out of tolerance) hex key.
Just looking at the pictures of the two, I'd go with the Sunk2. The Megan pieces look lighter, but they also look like they need some better design work before I'd use them.
#12
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righto. im going to go ahead and try to use the skunk2 ball joints in the ebay arms. and hopefully be able to use the energy suspension poly bushings i have too. maybe ill paint it red so i can be cool too...lol
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you can upgrade an older style s2 kit with the new ball joints. available through kingmotorsports
the pro kit has rubber bushings and the pro+ has es poly bushings
(i recomment the pro kit over the pro+, the poly started squeeking on the 3rd day for me) just be sure to lower the vehicle before you torque all your suspension bolts back down. thats the reason everyone complains of torn bushings on their lowered vehicles
Originally Posted by kingmotorsports.com
Skunk2 Pro Series Camber Kit Ball Joint & Top Plate - Fits all Skunk2 Camber Kits [S2-916-05-5670]
(i recomment the pro kit over the pro+, the poly started squeeking on the 3rd day for me) just be sure to lower the vehicle before you torque all your suspension bolts back down. thats the reason everyone complains of torn bushings on their lowered vehicles
Last edited by B-Well; 07-13-2009 at 06:42 PM.
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i just bought the new v2 ball joints from skunk to replace the ones on my ebay arms. i will see if it works and post pics.
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"us itr guys"
+rep sir
hard rubber is greater.
i feel its quite shitty having to lube your entire vehicle twice weekly so it doesnt squeak. and that can involve removing parts to do. no thank you.
Tightening at ride height is not as big of a concern with poly as the inner bushing sleeves are free rotating/not attatched to the bushings. even if tightened at full droop they will rotate to the correct position when pre loaded and no harm done. it is a MUST with rubber bushings when the inner bushings are fused with the bushing material
+rep sir
i feel its quite shitty having to lube your entire vehicle twice weekly so it doesnt squeak. and that can involve removing parts to do. no thank you.
Tightening at ride height is not as big of a concern with poly as the inner bushing sleeves are free rotating/not attatched to the bushings. even if tightened at full droop they will rotate to the correct position when pre loaded and no harm done. it is a MUST with rubber bushings when the inner bushings are fused with the bushing material
Last edited by B-Well; 07-14-2009 at 05:34 AM.
#20
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"us itr guys"
+rep sir
hard rubber is greater.
i feel its quite shitty having to lube your entire vehicle twice weekly so it doesnt squeak. and that can involve removing parts to do. no thank you.
Tightening at ride height is not as big of a concern with poly as the inner bushing sleeves are free rotating/not attatched to the bushings. even if tightened at full droop they will rotate to the correct position when pre loaded and no harm done. it is a MUST with rubber bushings when the inner bushings are fused with the bushing material
+rep sir
hard rubber is greater.
i feel its quite shitty having to lube your entire vehicle twice weekly so it doesnt squeak. and that can involve removing parts to do. no thank you.
Tightening at ride height is not as big of a concern with poly as the inner bushing sleeves are free rotating/not attatched to the bushings. even if tightened at full droop they will rotate to the correct position when pre loaded and no harm done. it is a MUST with rubber bushings when the inner bushings are fused with the bushing material