ok so fuel cleaner or octane booster? you guys seem to be half and half

 

Here is what I should do and should be the final say:

1. A visual inspection of the bike even before you move it. Check the tires for sure signs of dry rot, if they are consider getting the bike towed and having the tires replaced before you even ride it. Dry rotted tires are extremely dangerous both in terms of slipperiness and structural integrity IE flats and blow outs.

2. Replace the battery no matter what, and follow the proper charging instructions too. Your bike has not been run in awhile and it is best to do everything right with out skipping steps.

3. Check the area surrounding, are there piles of strange congealed substances on the floor that could have come from your bike? If there are trace back to the source and repair.

4. Check your suspension for a build of of contaminants and lightly while the fork legs clean and get a rag in the rear shock too, in fact detail the hole fucking bike, she deserves it after you neglected her asshole. (I kid I kid but give her some love wash and wax here, clean everything out wipe the dust off et cetera)

5. Before doing the gas take check all your other fluids, brake systems can develop a little bit of air in them over time if moisture somehow got in the system, why don't you go ahead and bleed them. Do you have enough coolant?

6. Gas Tank, this is what I would do, right away drain the tank bare bare fucking dry. This next step may or may not apply to you if 1. your take was to the top completely fucking full and I mean to the brim, and 2. it was treated for storage. If neither apply then this is what I would do just to avoid any headaches in the future. Remove tank from bike drain all old fuel and let the tank try out, reseal the tank because if it was not all they way full all though unlikely rust could have developed especially in the spout where you place the gas nozzle to fill up and where it has knocked/scratched/rubbed away paint. Clean your fuel filter if you have one, better yet just replace it. When everything is done reinstall the tank and fill it with fresh happy fuel, don't worry about the fuel injectors quite yet just the tank. You might want to take this opportunity to replace the spark plugs too, especially if it has been sitting for two years and the bike has more then say 8 or 9 thousand miles on it. (This is not necessary but hey while you are there why not do preventative maintenance?)

7. Find a rear stand and raise the rear of the bike up. Put the bike in neutral and begin the rotate the rear tire around working the chain. Take about and hour to completely clean and inspect the chain and sprockets as well as thoroughly re lubricating them.

8. Check the clutch. Does it pull alright? Does it seem sticky? It probably will but don't worry just pump it a few times.

9. Only after you have done these things go ahead and start the bike and let it idle in place till it is completely warmed up. Then give it a few more minutes and shut it off. Now change the oil and oil filter. Heating it up will help drain all the crappy old oil out.

10. Last step give it a quick ride up and down the block, check the brakes, clutch and other systems brake light, signals you get the idea. If anything at all seems questionable stop riding and figure it out, or take it to your local shop.

What I have described will take you the better part of the day, and your tank will have to dry over night, but do it right. Your bike will like you for it, you will like you for it and in the end will just be more satisfying to finally step on your machine. I like to say that if you are going to do something do it right the first time and not wait till it is to late.

 

seafoam does amazing things.

 

that's a matter of opinion. I hate that stuff. Yeah, car guys use it all the time, but fuel systems on bikes are SIGNIFICANTLY different than cars with regards to size of parts/orifices/etc. It may work, but it can also do more harm than good, depending on the situation/usage.

Just my opinion though, take it for what it is.




stupid high octane gas won't accomplish anything but making your bike run hotter-n-hell. Octane is just an anti-knock rating, and makes no difference in anything unless you have high enough compression to need it. High octane race gas doesn't make your bike run much better (nutec and other oxygenated fuels being exceptions), but it sure does smell nice

and BTW, titanium doesn't rust Does turn purty colors when you get it hot though, lol.

to hell with the shop, Im moving into a place with a 2 car garage in a few days, come by and see what'll be goin on at MY HOUSE.

living in a place with a big garage... a block away from the bestest salvage yard in the area... no one's ever gonna see me stay tuned... cool shit will be coming soon.

 

well the bike has 270 miles on it. hardly ridin let alone hard. i have ridin it around a little and every thing seems ok could maybe use a brake bleed. but clutch shifts ok but only got to 2nd gear on rode in a parking lot. (don't have my license yet)

 

270 miles? really? godamn, it's not even past initial break in and it's 3 years old!

flush the gas, change the oil/filter, and finish the break in miles. You haven't even ridden it enough to worry about much else, lol.

tell you what, bring it to me, I'll do all the service, and finish breaking it in for you in a week

 

I'm a mechanic my self so I can handle the service work. Ill break it in pretty quick but is there anything special I should do during break in

 

change the oil as often as you can/feel the need. the trans gears shave off alot of metal particles during break in that end up being circulated thru the rest of the motor.

Other than that, ride it like you stole it

 

How long is the break in period. After break what are the oil change intervals

 

"by the book" first oil change is 500 miles, but being as it's been sitting for 2 years, I'd change it immediatly.

I've never really owned a "from the crate" brand-new bike, but I believe the mfr suggested break in is about 1500 miles

I'll probably catch flack for this, but when I build my own motors, I usually put an easy 50 or so miles on them, change the oil, then a little harder 50 miles, change the oil, then beat the snot out of it.

Granted, as I said, I build my own motors, so I know the tolerances/etc, but I've yet to see one fail.

after break in, most people change thier oil about every 3k miles.

-random fact- the us is one of the few countries that "reccomends" oil changes every 3k miles, most other countries are at about 7k. Wonder why we fight so hard for foriegn oil??