Remember that if the battery is relocated to the trunk...there has to be a kill switch to pass tech inspection. I personally run a 280cca 4wheeler battery in my car that I built a custom tray for in the wheel well. It cranks and starts the car fine. My car does sit alot though so...I keep an external trickle charger on it. I've never had an issue and the car has been in use for over 2 yrs now. I would get the small one versus relocating it. Just my 2 cents though

 

I've been using the same odyssey pc680 since 2004 in three different cars and the only problems I've had with it is when I had a ground from a bad stereo install and when I forget to turn the dome light from on to neutral every now and then. I've never had a problem in the winter so cold cranking amps shouldn't be an issue.

 

i have the odyssey and it was good during winter up until i got underdrive pulleys. then it rarely starts rite up in 20 degree weather

 

I got one years ago when they were cheaper. They are garbage. It died and killed my alternator with it. Fuck them things. They can't cold crank worth a shit and don't hold a charge worth a shit. If you got an AEM EMS you DEFINITELY don't want one, don't hold voltage stable enough and will die very often, and crank so slow that it takes a while to sync the cam sensor. If you run stock ECU and daily drive the car it might last a while, but I still am not a fan at all.

Optima batteries are crap too. I see more of them fail than any other type. Best damn battery I've ever ran in anything was an interstate.

 

we used the same battery in our race car last season with no problems, if your interested we have one forsale

https://www.vadriven.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320746

and for what its worth we have aem on our car

 

If a DSM had more than 2 teeth on the trigger it'd be easier with AEM. Problem is the battery sucks and the AEM needs so many rotations to sync a 2 tooth sensor that it takes like 8 seconds to fire which is kindof annoying. Add in the fact that AEM is a natural system drain and it just makes things that much worse for a car that is only driven once in a while. In a race car it lasts because I assume it's unhooked or the shut off switch is off more often than not. The constant draw is what kills these things. If you keep the shut off switch on off when not in use it's gonna last decently. I still don't like how weak they crank though, regardless of whether or not they last. Always sound like they are struggling.

An interstate battery was in my red car for about 8 years. Even when I let the car sit for months when I was at school it'd fire right up when I came home. I should have never given that thing up. I got rid of it for one of these little jokers and 6 months later it was done. Got a truck battery from advance auto and been running that ever since.

 

i just had my optima lose a cell in my truck so fuck them...but i just got in my braille 11lb battery/tray that will be going in the car behind the pass seat. since it sits i also got a a tender to keep it good (so basically my .2 is if you get a lightweight battery MAKE SURE you buy a battery tender as well)

 

ok i have one and a cell just went out on it so i havent had any goodluck with them