problem with the miata
03-26-2010, 09:07 AM
#21
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Re: problem with the miata
The majority of electrical systems work on closed circuits independent from each other. Like for instance, GM vehicles have the stereo system, alarm system, engine electrical and power door locks all on the same circuit. Just like in old Christmas tree lights, if one bulb goes out none of the lights will work.Apply that to your situation. You could have blown a fuse in the back of the stereo unit that would cause the whole circuit not to work. I'm not an electrical expert by any means, but hopefully this will help. It's going to be hard to trace the electrical system because there's no Haynes or Chilton's manuals for an 01' to refer to. I'm in the same boat as you...proud owner of an 01'.
03-26-2010, 02:24 PM
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03-26-2010, 02:25 PM
#25
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Re: problem with the miata
You're right, you're definitely not an electrical expert by any means.
That's not how automotive power circuits are arranged. Circuit power doesn't go through the stereo fuse and into the other devices in the circuit. All the devices are in parallel, so if one device (like the stereo) blows a fuse, the other devices don't lose power. Christmas lights don't work like you stated either. The really old lights crippled the entire string when one bulb blew, because they're in series. Modern (that's a relative term of course...) christmas lights have the bulbs in parallel so the rest of the string stays lit when a bulb fails.
The only concept of a "closed circuit" is the fact that groups of devices are powered by a single fuse where each subcircuit branches off the larger, higher level circuits. The battery goes to a set of main fuses, those fuses branch out and go to sets of smaller fuses for each circuit, and those fuses branch out to feed the individual electrical loads.
If this is a confusing concept, hit Wikipedia and learn about the concept of devices in series and parallel.
It's not going to be hard to trace the electrical system, and it really doesn't matter if there isn't a Haynes or Chilton's manual. Both of those are absolute crap, and if you want to do something to your car (whatever car it is) you should get a factory service manual. You don't think the dealership says "oh man, finding what's wrong with this engine is going to take all week, Haynes doesn't make a manual for this year...", do you?? This problem really doesn't sound like an electrical problem though, so I'm not sure why this is even an issue.
That's not how automotive power circuits are arranged. Circuit power doesn't go through the stereo fuse and into the other devices in the circuit. All the devices are in parallel, so if one device (like the stereo) blows a fuse, the other devices don't lose power. Christmas lights don't work like you stated either. The really old lights crippled the entire string when one bulb blew, because they're in series. Modern (that's a relative term of course...) christmas lights have the bulbs in parallel so the rest of the string stays lit when a bulb fails.
The only concept of a "closed circuit" is the fact that groups of devices are powered by a single fuse where each subcircuit branches off the larger, higher level circuits. The battery goes to a set of main fuses, those fuses branch out and go to sets of smaller fuses for each circuit, and those fuses branch out to feed the individual electrical loads.
If this is a confusing concept, hit Wikipedia and learn about the concept of devices in series and parallel.
It's not going to be hard to trace the electrical system, and it really doesn't matter if there isn't a Haynes or Chilton's manual. Both of those are absolute crap, and if you want to do something to your car (whatever car it is) you should get a factory service manual. You don't think the dealership says "oh man, finding what's wrong with this engine is going to take all week, Haynes doesn't make a manual for this year...", do you?? This problem really doesn't sound like an electrical problem though, so I'm not sure why this is even an issue.
03-26-2010, 06:27 PM
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Re: problem with the miata
Whenever I have any doubts about a boost leak, I remeber this site:
http://vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Good advice on pulling off the turbo and checking the actuator. Or if you are lazy like me, wire-tie / vice grip / hose clamp / it closed and test for boost buildup. Not recommended for more than a few seconds or racing a V8 Mustang or track day but it will eliminate that as a possiblity.
Clogged cat?
BTW, post pic of engine bay?
http://vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Good advice on pulling off the turbo and checking the actuator. Or if you are lazy like me, wire-tie / vice grip / hose clamp / it closed and test for boost buildup. Not recommended for more than a few seconds or racing a V8 Mustang or track day but it will eliminate that as a possiblity.
Clogged cat?
BTW, post pic of engine bay?
04-03-2010, 02:19 PM
#27
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Re: problem with the miata
alright, here's an update. i built an intercooler and piping tester today. i unhooked the intake side and installed it there in the IC piping. There IS a leak, but it's not in the piping, or the intercooler. it's somewhere after the TB, but i cannot pinpoint it. i'm guessing it's the intake manifold gasket, but i can't tell for sure. i also replaced the hotside of the turbo with another hotside off of a blown turbo, the wastegate flap on this one had MUCH more resistance than the other one did. now it'll get up to 5psi and taper off.
04-04-2010, 12:12 AM
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Re: problem with the miata
Liquid soap and water. Bubbles + intake leak tester = leak
The best kind is the moisturing type that smells like lavender. You'll find it in the homo aisle of the supermarket k?
The best kind is the moisturing type that smells like lavender. You'll find it in the homo aisle of the supermarket k?
04-04-2010, 06:37 AM
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Re: problem with the miata
yeah i know what i need to do to find the leak. i was just posting an update. getting help around my house is hard as fuck, as soon as you pressurize the system it leaks out fast as fuck.
04-04-2010, 08:26 AM
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Re: problem with the miata
i once got desperate/bored and rigged up a leak tester + CO2 paintball canister + the regulator and valve from my marker to do this test. there is plenty of cubic FEET in the 20oz can so my air compressor never got used. i THINK the setup was pushing 50-100psi. enough to hear the leak whistle
lmk if you want me to elaborate. perfect if you dont have an air compressor.
lmk if you want me to elaborate. perfect if you dont have an air compressor.