i just got done with my build and all i can say it do it right and spend the extra money and better parts. esp motor parts. i did two builds, first one i was like you. i had a b18c1 with b17 head (stock) and all i wanted was like 350whp so i got a turbo kit and some other goodies for the engine only for my engine to shit on me b4 my kit was ever installed.

instead of putting another stock motor in i just went ahead and made sure the motor was BUILT from the bottom up.

if you add up all the parts u will break on that stock motor you prolly might save money just getting a fully built block. my .02

p.s. if you are on a budget turbo isnt the best for you. trust.

 

Vortech FMU $178.00
FPR to get 55 psi base pressure $130.00
Gauge $25.00
Walbro Pump (required) $110.00
$433.00

Aeromotive Boost Reference FPR $155.00
Stainless Line $110.00
Miscellaneous Fittings $20.00
Gauge $25.00
$310.00

Difference in cost of Injectors, maximum $40.00

With the correct setup, and larger injectors, you can run the fuel pressure lower, and the stock pump will handle enough fuel for 500 hp at only 35 psi of pressure. It's not trying to force Niagara Falls through a soda straw at that pressure.

So, Math is > you.
Pre-conceived (and wrong) notions of cheap, versus actual research.

 

stock pump is only good for about 60% over stock, far less when its older. for the most part, when dropping pressure below 50 psi with big injectors, idle tends to suffer as the lack of pressure effects its spray pattern.

a 12:1 fmu w/ guage and a 255 pump can be had for less then $250. which is still good for a 5-7 psi set-up, well assuming your using 240 injectors.

btw: you did not add the management that is required for the use of those bigger injectors.

 

Ya man. If you want 240whp. Get a Rev Hard kit that comes with everything you need, even a fuel pump. Get a set of 450cc or 550cc injectors tuned it on Hondata or Crome @ 10psi. Easy 240+whp.

 

You will be using a SAFC, Chrome, or Hondata system regardless to fine tune the fuel. Otherwise, you'll be trying different combinations until you hit on the right FMU/boost level, or you blow it up!

And, being as how RC's are designed to work at 43 psi, I don't think idle will suffer under 50.....So, that's basically bullshit. Can you find a FMU cheaper? Yes. Can you find a return setup cheaper? Yes.

According to the man, you'll need 55 psi of base pressure for it to run right, so you'll be buying a regulator either way.

 

There is so much mis/over information in this thread. It's mind blowing.


And if you think you are going to get all the -an fittings you need to convert your fuel system for $20 you are crazy.

 

The fact is this: People have done it both ways. If you have the money to spend than go all out. If not, people are getting by with much simpler systems. Either way will get the job done, one is just more ideal than the other. The better the parts the better the result (usually)