addin more HP..to my LS
not if you use a window,50-75 should be fine
If i were to make suggestions.....this is the path i would take. IN ORDER.(ive done some research, but not a ton so call me out if im wrong people)
1) b16 tranny or gsr tranny.
2)header/intake/exhaust.
3)b16/gsr/or type r head.
4) Some sort of tuning program (hondata w/dyno time)
1) b16 tranny or gsr tranny.
2)header/intake/exhaust.
3)b16/gsr/or type r head.
4) Some sort of tuning program (hondata w/dyno time)
And then you can have a Ls/vtec like everyone else... Im sticking with my LS. Fuck a vtec.
Well I dont know aton about LS... but if you dont plan on going boost.... Id say the first thing you want to do is get a shorter geared tranny... B16 or GSR and im sure you will notice alot more "pep" from that... Id also suggest a set of cams... Intake manifold... a bigger Throttle body... nice exhaust set up.. Lightened Flywheel.. decent clutch... and a GOOD tune.. also weight reduction would play a big role in your car perform decently
wow... originally the poster wanted to not spend 2 grand on a turbo. Now we suggest
- cams~250
- intake~250
- throttle body~80
- nice exhaust~300-450
- lightweight flywheel~150-250
- decent clutch~300
- Tuning program~200-1000
- going to get dyno tuned 300-600
- weight reduction~~~FREE
these are just rough estimates of figures. but do some research on the parts and look into prices before you start lego building your motor. you will waste a load of money trying to go NA on a LS.... its still a waste even if you have GSR to make NA.
you will have surpassed the dollar amount you intended to spend trying to go NA and make less power and spend more money than if you had done a turbo.
If you want a decent daily driver, look into a B20 build and do the same things mentioned above, and that will give you a more torquey motor compared to the B18.
Remember..... there is no replacement for DISplacement!!!
And there is no replacement for a decent head. Which the non-VTEC B series engines don't have. You can mod whatever you want, but you'll still be hobbled by that head design unless you put some serious work into it. I don't care if you want to be the anti-hero by not doing a VTEC head swap, that's fine and all, but there are very solid reasons to swap the head. You'll need some valves, port work, and chamber work to go along with those cams, just to get to the same perfomance point where a non-modified VTEC head starts. An engine is just a complicated air pump, and if you aren't able to get the air in and out, you have nothing.
Last edited by Fabrik8; Mar 12, 2009 at 07:12 PM.







