My New Time Attack Car Build Thread
Either a Jerico or dogbox T5 unless I find a crazy deal on a hewland, hollinger, X-trac, or quaife.
Don't get me wrong the T56 is a good tranny but I want to have the ability to upshift and downshift without using the clutch. On the upshifts I will be using an ignition interrupt. A straight cut, dog engagement gearset for the T56 is $7000 (way too much). Although in ST1 I will be penalized for having a dogbox/sequential tranny the benefits are definitely worth the penalty. One of the really nice things about shifting without the clutch happens mid corner. Not having to lift off the gas and unsettle the car mid corner to change gears, allows the driver to maintain maximum grip throughout the entire corner which in turn increases corner exit speed.
Don't get me wrong the T56 is a good tranny but I want to have the ability to upshift and downshift without using the clutch. On the upshifts I will be using an ignition interrupt. A straight cut, dog engagement gearset for the T56 is $7000 (way too much). Although in ST1 I will be penalized for having a dogbox/sequential tranny the benefits are definitely worth the penalty. One of the really nice things about shifting without the clutch happens mid corner. Not having to lift off the gas and unsettle the car mid corner to change gears, allows the driver to maintain maximum grip throughout the entire corner which in turn increases corner exit speed.
Last edited by DRFTwizard; Sep 26, 2009 at 07:09 PM.
When running a dogbox, do any changes have to be made to the drivetrain to accommodate it? Will you still have a typical clutch mating the engine and tranny, and the option to disengage it with the clutch pedal?
Either a Jerico or dogbox T5 unless I find a crazy deal on a hewland, hollinger, X-trac, or quaife.
Don't get me wrong the T56 is a good tranny but I want to have the ability to upshift and downshift without using the clutch. On the upshifts I will be using an ignition interrupt. A straight cut, dog engagement gearset for the T56 is $7000 (way too much). Although in ST1 I will be penalized for having a dogbox/sequential tranny the benefits are definitely worth the penalty. One of the really nice things about shifting without the clutch happens mid corner. Not having to lift off the gas and unsettle the car mid corner to change gears, allows the driver to maintain maximum grip throughout the entire corner which in turn increases corner exit speed.
Don't get me wrong the T56 is a good tranny but I want to have the ability to upshift and downshift without using the clutch. On the upshifts I will be using an ignition interrupt. A straight cut, dog engagement gearset for the T56 is $7000 (way too much). Although in ST1 I will be penalized for having a dogbox/sequential tranny the benefits are definitely worth the penalty. One of the really nice things about shifting without the clutch happens mid corner. Not having to lift off the gas and unsettle the car mid corner to change gears, allows the driver to maintain maximum grip throughout the entire corner which in turn increases corner exit speed.
T56? You can buy damn near 3 new T56's for that price.
It never hurts to upgrade the differential and anytime you shock load the ring gear you are asking for problems. I will be running a low final drive something in the low 3.00 range. The reason for this is the lower the final drive the stronger the ring gear. This is due to the fact that the pinion contacts more surface area on the tooth of the ring gear because of the decreased ring gear tooth angle. Make sense? Hard to explain but you get the point. If the E36 M3 diff doesn't work out i'm going to upgrade to a ford 8.8 or an E46 M3 diff which will require modifications to my rear subframe
I'm hoping the E36 M3 diff works out.
It really depends on the application. I will be using a single disc full face ceramic clutch. Something a little tougher than the stock clutch for an LS1. There will be a clutch pedal and the clutch is still used to take off. The clutch can be used at anytime but due to the fact that the gears use dog engagement instead of synchronizers the gear shifts are much more violent and require increased force to engage the gear. So you can use the clutch but when you actually select the next gear you will still feel the "clunk" as the dogs engage. Most of the time you just barely lift off the throttle on upshifts (or use an ignition interrupt).
It never hurts to upgrade the differential and anytime you shock load the ring gear you are asking for problems. I will be running a low final drive something in the low 3.00 range. The reason for this is the lower the final drive the stronger the ring gear. This is due to the fact that the pinion contacts more surface area on the tooth of the ring gear because of the decreased ring gear tooth angle. Make sense? Hard to explain but you get the point. If the E36 M3 diff doesn't work out i'm going to upgrade to a ford 8.8 or an E46 M3 diff which will require modifications to my rear subframe
I'm hoping the E36 M3 diff works out.
It never hurts to upgrade the differential and anytime you shock load the ring gear you are asking for problems. I will be running a low final drive something in the low 3.00 range. The reason for this is the lower the final drive the stronger the ring gear. This is due to the fact that the pinion contacts more surface area on the tooth of the ring gear because of the decreased ring gear tooth angle. Make sense? Hard to explain but you get the point. If the E36 M3 diff doesn't work out i'm going to upgrade to a ford 8.8 or an E46 M3 diff which will require modifications to my rear subframe
I'm hoping the E36 M3 diff works out.Definitely man. I'll be at the track driving for the next three weekends so I won't be working on it until after that. If you want to go to the track you and Zak should come up to VIR next weekend for the Koni Challenge race. I'll be driving for VW that weekend in a new program they started that allows people to ride along during an actual race. It will be me and 6 other pro drivers racing brand new R32's. The following weekend is my last race of the season with a 1 hour endurance race on Sunday which should be pretty fun to watch. I might be working on the E36 during the week though after work if you wanna come by. I'll hit you up and let you know.
I learned something a few things by reading this thread. 
Good luck on your build man! That thing is going to be fun as hell to drive.

Good luck on your build man! That thing is going to be fun as hell to drive.
did you ever get a widebody kit for it??
i have a folger widebody kit...its for an e30 but you could probably modify the parts to work...
or build a e30
i have a folger widebody kit...its for an e30 but you could probably modify the parts to work...
or build a e30
It really depends on the application. I will be using a single disc full face ceramic clutch. Something a little tougher than the stock clutch for an LS1. There will be a clutch pedal and the clutch is still used to take off. The clutch can be used at anytime but due to the fact that the gears use dog engagement instead of synchronizers the gear shifts are much more violent and require increased force to engage the gear. So you can use the clutch but when you actually select the next gear you will still feel the "clunk" as the dogs engage. Most of the time you just barely lift off the throttle on upshifts (or use an ignition interrupt).
It never hurts to upgrade the differential and anytime you shock load the ring gear you are asking for problems. I will be running a low final drive something in the low 3.00 range. The reason for this is the lower the final drive the stronger the ring gear. This is due to the fact that the pinion contacts more surface area on the tooth of the ring gear because of the decreased ring gear tooth angle. Make sense? Hard to explain but you get the point. If the E36 M3 diff doesn't work out i'm going to upgrade to a ford 8.8 or an E46 M3 diff which will require modifications to my rear subframe
I'm hoping the E36 M3 diff works out.
It never hurts to upgrade the differential and anytime you shock load the ring gear you are asking for problems. I will be running a low final drive something in the low 3.00 range. The reason for this is the lower the final drive the stronger the ring gear. This is due to the fact that the pinion contacts more surface area on the tooth of the ring gear because of the decreased ring gear tooth angle. Make sense? Hard to explain but you get the point. If the E36 M3 diff doesn't work out i'm going to upgrade to a ford 8.8 or an E46 M3 diff which will require modifications to my rear subframe
I'm hoping the E36 M3 diff works out.




