and to lose the hardtop.

 

Brand new from weksos they are $928 shipped.

 

How big is this hole? I can't imagine it would be big enough to interfere with the much larger, much higher flow path that the rest of the air travels through. What's the area (and shape) of the hole, and what's the area of the main inlet, and what's the temperature difference between the two? If it brings the temp up a degree, maybe two if the hole is big, is it an issue?

How are you measuring the flex of the brace, and how do you know that the brace isn't working perfectly and some other part of the chassis is flexing?

I'm not sure why you think a hollow brace is bad...? It should be stiff enough to do the job obviously, but I'd rather have tubular braces than solid bars any day. Solid bars are much heavier for the same stiffness. There is a reason that roll cages aren't make with solid barstock. You make a solid one, and then I'll make a hollow one that outperforms it, weighs a third of yours, and costs less. Bracing is more about stiffness through proper design, not just making something out of solid metal because it feels hefty in your hand. There really isn't any reason braces need to be solid, it's just unnecessary overkill.

Front/rear weight distribution has nothing to do with corner weighting. No matter what you do, you can't change that with corner weighting, that's just static weight and where it's located. Corner weighting is just spring adjustment (really height adjustment actually) so that you have the same spring force making contact with the ground on the left and right. You could make two diagonal corners longer than the other two, and the whole weight of the car would be supported on those two wheels, or three wheels, or whatever. That's the whole concept, you're trying to not have unequal force on different wheels, but you can't do anything about F/R weight distribution.. You can compensate a bit for uneven left/right chassis weight distribution if it is different in the front and the rear.

It isn't really important for a street car, unless you're doing a lot of canyon driving or whatever, but it's pretty cheap to do usually. You just need four scales and a level concrete floor. You obviously can't do it with a fixed height spring/damper setup either, unless you want to use shims or something like that.

I have access to a few electronically linked quad scale setups, so it's free because you're just doing coilover height adjustment.

 

That Muz looks like a good piece. Kind of odd design with two sizes of tubing, but that's probably for cost. Looks like a better design than the Spoon, that's for sure. Without knowing the directions of the loads, it's hard to say.

 

My favorite part, I like going topless once in a while. Sometimes I do so for extended periods of time (ie this whole summer). But the look seals it for me.

 

+1! Drop it! then exhaust or intake...

 

I'm thinking about a t1r exhaust, but only a coolingplate and snorkel for the intake. I want something quiet but single.

 

Amuse Titan Euro single exhaust. Sounds awesome, only 13 lbs. I love mine. If you want to hear it, let me know. Hell, I may even sell it.

 

you can get a K&N FIPK for an intake. i have that and it sounds so good. also im dropped on Tein Flex w/ Edfc. they ride like stock on the softest setting but on the hardest it is a kidney shaker. i've got a Greddy Ti-C Dual and it sounds good and doesnt drone. but if youre looking for a single get a J's 60rs. my J's 60rs is coming in 2 weeks and its only like 12lbs. the sound is also pure sex. but with all single exhausts it is gonna be a little loud unless you get the T1R 70r-em or Asm.

 

Let me get it.