koni yellow/gc problem
So all aftermarket springs that are shorter than stock and are used with stock length struts would not pass inspection, so no aftermarket spring would pass unless the spring has a helper spring or a section of coils with a lower spring rate (either of which would go into coil bind and be useless as a spring) to achieve the stock length? That says that the only way to pass inspection with a shorter aftermarket spring would be to use a shorter (aftermarket) strut to limit the amount of suspension travel when the car is jacked up and the suspension is unloaded and at full droop?
So all aftermarket springs that are shorter than stock and are used with stock length struts would not pass inspection, so no aftermarket spring would pass unless the spring has a helper spring or a section of coils with a lower spring rate (either of which would go into coil bind and be useless as a spring) to achieve the stock length? That says that the only way to pass inspection with a shorter aftermarket spring would be to use a shorter (aftermarket) strut to limit the amount of suspension travel when the car is jacked up and the suspension is unloaded and at full droop?
ive seen some one use a limiting strap before...... i dont know it that will pass though
That would also imply that most threaded body coilovers would not pass inspection either, because their change in spring length under static compression (car sitting on the ground) is less than their adjustment range. Therefore somewhere in their adjustment range the spring won't be fully seated under while under full droop. If that isn't the case, the springs must be either really soft or they would get severely preloaded at the highest adjustment (the damper wouldn't be able to extend enough so the spring would have to compress to adjust further). If the spring is preloaded, the entire suspension travel (under droop) would be the amount that the spring compresses under static load (car on the ground under its own weight). Some coilovers are like that, many aren't.
I'm still not convinced if you can't tell already.
Last edited by Fabrik8; Jul 23, 2009 at 06:47 PM.
Sorry. Back on track for a little while. 
The weight of the car won't ever be on that shaft. The weight of the car is on the springs, and the springs aren't inside the shock pushing on the shock shaft.
The shaft nut that goes onto the tophat is fine either way, but you can doublecheck it once the whole assembly is attached to the car if it you want. It doesn't matter really, the only thing pressing the tophat onto the nut is whatever force is inside the damper itself (not the spring force), which is nothing compared to the force that the nut/shaft threads can apply when tightening by hand. If you can compress the damper by hand without the spring on it, that's the force it pushes on the nut with.

The shaft nut that goes onto the tophat is fine either way, but you can doublecheck it once the whole assembly is attached to the car if it you want. It doesn't matter really, the only thing pressing the tophat onto the nut is whatever force is inside the damper itself (not the spring force), which is nothing compared to the force that the nut/shaft threads can apply when tightening by hand. If you can compress the damper by hand without the spring on it, that's the force it pushes on the nut with.
Last edited by Fabrik8; Jul 23, 2009 at 07:17 PM.





