My New Time Attack Car Build Thread
Nice... I was wondering where exactly the rear needed to be beefed up. Have heard that's a weak spot in the Bimmers when you start running more power through them.

Last edited by DRFTwizard; Apr 26, 2011 at 04:49 PM.
If you orient the head as it would go on the passenger side of the motor the head casting number is on the right front side of the head. If they're the later style LS1 heads they're probably 241s. The LS6 heads are 243s.
With that much lift just make sure you use the right springs and make sure the car is up to temp before you flog on it. For me that always meant 150 degrees oil temp before going WOT or over 3000 rpms. You'll probably want to replace your springs every season depending on use. For a street car the recommendation for something like a comp 921 was every 15,000 miles give or take a few thousand.
With that much lift just make sure you use the right springs and make sure the car is up to temp before you flog on it. For me that always meant 150 degrees oil temp before going WOT or over 3000 rpms. You'll probably want to replace your springs every season depending on use. For a street car the recommendation for something like a comp 921 was every 15,000 miles give or take a few thousand.
If you orient the head as it would go on the passenger side of the motor the head casting number is on the right front side of the head. If they're the later style LS1 heads they're probably 241s. The LS6 heads are 243s.
With that much lift just make sure you use the right springs and make sure the car is up to temp before you flog on it. For me that always meant 150 degrees oil temp before going WOT or over 3000 rpms. You'll probably want to replace your springs every season depending on use. For a street car the recommendation for something like a comp 921 was every 15,000 miles give or take a few thousand.

With that much lift just make sure you use the right springs and make sure the car is up to temp before you flog on it. For me that always meant 150 degrees oil temp before going WOT or over 3000 rpms. You'll probably want to replace your springs every season depending on use. For a street car the recommendation for something like a comp 921 was every 15,000 miles give or take a few thousand.

I know some were asking about the gear ratios and top speed etc. etc. Here are some numbers

Trans gearing, 2.40, 1.65, 1.27, 1.00 with 3:15 rear end and 7000 rpm limiter.
1st Gear 2.40:1 68.98 MPH
2nd Gear 1.65:1 100.33 MPH
3rd Gear 1.27:1 130.35 MPH
4th Gear 1.00:1 165.54 MPH

Trans gearing, 2.40, 1.65, 1.27, 1.00 with 3:15 rear end and 7000 rpm limiter.
1st Gear 2.40:1 68.98 MPH
2nd Gear 1.65:1 100.33 MPH
3rd Gear 1.27:1 130.35 MPH
4th Gear 1.00:1 165.54 MPH
Last edited by DRFTwizard; Apr 29, 2011 at 04:03 PM.
So I worked on the car a little tonight. I was trying to press in my solid bushings but I left one of them a little tight
I was worried about cracking the housing so I decided to press it back out. The only problem I had was I didn't have a drift/socket big enough to press the bushing out so I had to improvise. Even though it looks crude, it only took 3 min to make and it worked great. The other pictures are of the reinforcements I made to the cover, I created a small crack when trying to install the bushings the first time around so I decided to not only grind out and repair the crack but to go ahead and reinforce both wings and add some lateral bracing as well for good measure since this will be seeing twice the stock hp. I cut some plates at the shop and got Scott to weld them on this afternoon. The lateral braces will add a small amount of additional surface area to aid in cooling. It's probably a negligible amount though. More bushings tomorrow, I'll be glad when these are done 


I was worried about cracking the housing so I decided to press it back out. The only problem I had was I didn't have a drift/socket big enough to press the bushing out so I had to improvise. Even though it looks crude, it only took 3 min to make and it worked great. The other pictures are of the reinforcements I made to the cover, I created a small crack when trying to install the bushings the first time around so I decided to not only grind out and repair the crack but to go ahead and reinforce both wings and add some lateral bracing as well for good measure since this will be seeing twice the stock hp. I cut some plates at the shop and got Scott to weld them on this afternoon. The lateral braces will add a small amount of additional surface area to aid in cooling. It's probably a negligible amount though. More bushings tomorrow, I'll be glad when these are done 


Got the rear trailing arm bushings installed today and welded the RTAB reinforcement plates in as well. The rear subframe and diff are ready to go back in the car, i'm just waiting on brake lines. I should be relocating the car sometime in the next 10 days so the engine can be installed. Driveshaft should be done in the next weed or so as well.
Rosette welded RTAB reinforcement plates

Rear subframe

Rosette welded RTAB reinforcement plates

Rear subframe

First I'd like to say awesome build man. Wish I has the time and finances to do such a project.
My buddy pointed me in the direction of this thread because you were so happy with the work at Gregory's. I'm glad you liked it, makes me feel good to personally hear(see) the great feedback. I don't remember any specifics about these heads. But I remember working on some ls1s recently, and that 7 is my handwriting, I'm the only one at the shop that writes them that way.
Thanks for the great comments.
My buddy pointed me in the direction of this thread because you were so happy with the work at Gregory's. I'm glad you liked it, makes me feel good to personally hear(see) the great feedback. I don't remember any specifics about these heads. But I remember working on some ls1s recently, and that 7 is my handwriting, I'm the only one at the shop that writes them that way.
Thanks for the great comments.







